PFW | FW13 part III

CHRISTIAN DIOR

It seems like there's a perpetual spring in the air at Christian Dior. Raf Simons meshed floral motifs in dainty pastels and loud brights while maintaining a seasonal balance with beautiful juxtapositions of black and white throughout. We all know Simons for his exquisite tailoring at Jil Sander, which I equally appreciate at Dior. The same incredible volume and construction of the garments are done in the femininity-embracing history of Christian Dior. (The fabric of the second skirt--DISCUSS)

ACNE STUDIOS

I love a well-done deconstructed garment. At Acne, Johansson played with hard and soft, contrasting boxy, linear pieces with the fluidity of his slit skirts and dresses. Add in some textural details on the surface and some metallic patches and we have a stunning collection!

HUSSEIN CHALAYAN

Chalayan is what I deem the master engineer in the fashion industry. With an eye for technology that seems to be ahead of our time, Chalayan always creates astonishingly confounding pieces in his shows. There were many a transforming dress here, with models walking normally and then at once tugging at the dress to transform in the face of an awe-stricken audience (have you seen the GIFs floating around tumblr? incredible). Aside from the incredible evolution of the garment in a matter of seconds, the pieces still exude his elegant and sophisticated yet futuristic aesthetic. The brushed graphic is my favorite. 

HAIDER ACKERMANN

A pantsuit slash tailored blazer or trousers seems to always be succesful when done by Ackermann. I enjoyed the dark, woodsy palette of charcoals, black, and muddy earth tones. A generous amount of layering everywhere in sight, this collection screamed an appropriate "WEAR ME IN THE FALL" to me. I just love the effortless draping of this pieces and how they fall on the human form.

COMME DES GARCONS

REI. REI. REI. Forever Rei. This collection was a spectacular sight from beginning to end (especially the end), starting with an abundance of note-pad swatches (how I saw...how did you see it?) exploded onto your normal skirtsuit. The palette soon evolved beyond reserved grayscale and suddenly bloomed into technicolor tribal prints in seeming optical illusions and a tropical garden. All this with the fantastical silhouettes that are a Kawakubo signature makes me feel lucky that we have geniuses like her. 

images via style.com

xx

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