TOPMAN
I think I have a funny way of judging if I like a collection or not during menswear--the questions I hold are "would I myself like to wear this and do I like it on the guy on the runway?" In Topman's case, the answer was a definite yes. With everyone throwing "menswear inspired womenswear" around these days, it's a no brainer that these silhouettes are going to show up (and have already shown up, with successful feedback) in womenswear on the street and for retailers. Ever since Guillaume Henry gave us those ubiquitous oversized pastel coats, saccharine hued outerwear has exploded, and I'm still here for it--I do appreciate that the blue coat in the collection is slightly muted, however. Other details I'm obsessing over here: crackled paint details, a coated cableknit (last seen at Phillip Lim last season, I immediately became obsessed), and of course oversized tailoring.
RICHARD NICOLL
Who doesn't love classic tailored silhouettes with a twist? Nicoll presented a mix of streetwear and rather traditional menswear pieces like pleated trousers as well as almost comically detailed garments (note: cute frilly details on dress shirts, metallic florals). At this point, I think I've seen enough bermudas to want some myself--in that gorgeous brocadey/jacquardy blue in the middle. I'm also digging the simple graphic pullovers, with cool type rearranged and spelling words like "brutal" and "discreet" (definitely want one of those!)
J.W. ANDERSON
Androgyny was taken to another level of "wow" in Anderson's latest fall looks.What appeared like an extended dickie/sleeveless turtleneck with bold lines made for fantastic ensembles while Anderson's signature asymmetry and deconstruction kept the eye moving from head to toe as the collection progressed. An injection of rich colors gave the last looks a stronger graphic impact, from the shiny shirt and pant sets to the cool knits and wraparound "things" (I seriously don't know what to categorize those as... someone help me?) All in all, another stunning collection from Anderson.
MAN / CRAIG GREEN
I was pleasantly surprised to see that Green did not take the installation art path for his most recent collection (as he done with the last two, see here and here). Though I appreciate his sculptural aesthetic in those collections, they were definitely unwearable and at times too much to handle. This time, that same structured approach simmered down to an elegant minimalism, with a dark palette, boxy layers, and the most fantastic leather accessories. There was almost a monk-like restraint to the pieces, which can probably be attributed to the robe silhouettes throughout. I would wear the coats in a heartbeat!
