I think I always begin my Dion Lee reviews with something along the lines of "season to season" or "consistently," because that's just it--for the duration of time that I've followed his work, Lee has executed stunning and brilliantly constructed garments without fail. His SS14 collection, newly shown in New York, did the same, giving an injection of Australian cool to the minimalism we've been seeing on the runways. While the monochrome looks are to die for, the elegantly draped dresses really caught my eye with their stunning "looping" details on the bodices. The play on texture and print was also very refreshing after all the black and white at NYFW.
Spring doesn't often equate to layers but in this collection, it was pulled off beautifully and weather-appropriately. The clean cut pieces joined downtown edge with UES class in a gorgeous grayscale palette injected with muted pastels. I love the geometric detailing throughout the garments, from the ruched/pleated leather to the paneling on the gray skirt.
3.1 PHILLIP LIM
Sure to be the future of subject blogger/street style phenomena, Lim's SS14 collection was made for the streets but nonetheless extremely sophisticated. The motifs on the garments reminded me of concentric circles in wood and slices of agate. Many of the pieces were organic and tied back to those motifs, with the agate print between the solid bodice and dissipating into the sheer hem. The texture on the sweater of the fifth look is also killing me (it's like a frankenstein of rugs, in a weirdly good way).
Costa celebrated his 10th anniversary at Calvin Klein with this collection and it was celebratory indeed. The signature clean simplicity was maintained well throughout save for a few party pieces (rainbow fringe, is that you?) but it flowed nicely from pure whites and subtle beiges to a pleasant green. The frayed hems were later exaggerated into a lovely airy fringe in the last gowns, a beautiful way to close the collection.
On the other side of the fashion spectrum, Prabal Gurung brought us powder puffed flowery that was rare on the SS14 runways. The lightest pinks and limes took on the form of ultra feminine frocks and cool separates, splashed with black and white geometric and floral graphics. Although it was derivative of past collections (who do you see?), aesthetic wise, it was a generally gorgeous collection. I am infatuated with the pairing of the sheer coat over the green and black in the fourth look.
Toying with volume is something that few designers can execute successfully (in my eyes, at least). Consequently, my first encounter with this collection already made me a fan of the Spanish brand. Whimsical and spring-y in all the right ways, the variety of shape and texture throughout the pieces had me swooning. The mix of floral types was also amazing, spanning from painterly and cartoon-y to rigidly geometric. I love the contrast between the milky blouse and the solid cracker like skirt pairing as well as the embellishment on the third look creates an icing-like effect. Maybe I'm just hungry, but everything looked scrumptiously adorable.
images via style.com
And that concludes my NYFW coverage! Keep your eyes out for my LFW posts, coming up soon!