I'm so happy that one of the opening collections for LFW was Eudon Choi. The beautiful garments maintained the clean lines and minimalism from New York but had an extra "something" to them with the sporadic appearance of delicate florals and other prints. Florals and stripes are done quite often (think your local Forever 21 or even some SS13 stuff) but it was impeccably executed in the top and matching skirt. My absolute favorite ensemble of the collection, though, had to be the navy robe and pajama-esque trousers--if only I could roll out of bed and look that chic in the morning.
I think it goes without saying that I always look forward to Pilotto's collections when fashion week comes around. His keen ability to do prints in new and innovative ways season after season is truly admirable, and he is one of the few "prints-based" designers that I love unconditionally. This season, we were presented with a gorgeous palette of cool pastels on boxy cut tops juxtaposed with creased skirts. The origami like folds on the short sleeved blouses, cropped jackets, and folded skirts look so stunning with the ebbing colors and prints of the other pieces--in all it reminds me so much of the origami paper I used as a child when folding little cranes and such. Well done, again!
Signature Erdem florals were taken to a new level for Moralioglu's SS14 collection as a ballad in black, white, and gray along with hints of yellow and metallic sheen. Sheer paneling combined with florals and lace were refreshingly modern in the silhouettes--I am obsessed with the sheer layered skirt of the first look and the double breastpocketed jacket in the third. Compared to vibrancy of his last collections, I love the overall monochromaticity of these elegant looks, it really ups the luxe feel of the pieces.
Kane really dissected the floral trend for this collection, and by dissected I mean a botanical examination of flora. His rather scientific approach could be seen in the c-section graphics and labeling of various organs and I personally saw a clinical, lab-like quality in a few of the paneled dresses with the sharp edges and metal fixtures. What I love about this collection is how he took such a basic and essential spring trend ("florals for spring? groundbreaking.") and extended his aesthetic into so many different realms with the essence and motif of the flower. From the petal cutouts to the laser-cut c-sections to the gemstone detailing in lieu of straps, Kane really did an applause-worthy job in reinventing the wheel (florals) for SS14.
Another reinterpretation of florals for spring, Bregazzi's collection was a stunning balance of geometrical solid colored constructions and digitally rendered flowers. Subtle details like tiny perforations/cutouts along the seams and silver hardware on the shoulders and skirts of some pieces showed craftsmanship without adding heavily to the already impactful prints. I think my favorite part of the collection was how the floral quilt-like digital prints mirrored and complemented the angularity of Bregazzi's clean cuts.
Ah, the most anticipated show of LFW and the talk of the town (ok, just my circle of friends). I am happy and relieved to see that it wasn't too resemblant to his last few collections, as I was beginning to feel a monotony within them. This season, Anderson played with mixing new textures and asymmetrical details. I loved the use of the singular fringe trim across the shoulders and on the skirt of the third look, as well as the shrunken sweater as a "backless top" in the fifth look. The marshmallow-esque top (don't lie, you were thinking it too) with the yellow skirt was also a fantastic ensemble. In all, it was very springy but subtly and J.W.Anderson-ly so.
images via style.com
Hope you enjoyed my LFW roundup!
Today marked the beginning of Milan so keep an eye out for those too!