PRE-FALL 14 | Marni

images via style.com

MARNI does it again, blowing me away with the immensely fantastic styling of truly beautiful garments and accessories. The luxe factor increases with the addition of those colored fur stoles paired with delightfully bright prints and glimmering jewelry.

(I could picture myself wearing these ensembles both now and thirty years later... cheers to ageless dressing)

xx

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SS14 | Milan Round-up

PRADA When Prada showed, everyone freaked. My Facebook feed was "ALL HAIL MIUCCIA" and "THANK GOD FOR PRADA" and "EVERYONE GO HOME, PRADA KILLED IT"--no joke.  I will admit at first that I didn't see the appeal in it, but as I clicked through the collection for the second time, it truly grew on me. Maybe one gem short of sensory overload, the collection was a feast for the eyes, with colors and textures head to toe. Athletic influences infused with whimsical yet sophisticated youthfulness is how I would describe the collection. I cannot get over the bejeweled bra tops and encrusted dresses as well as the cool face motifs on some of the coats. Vibrancy and in-your-face embellishment is great for spring. 

COSTUME NATIONAL Are we getting sick of minimalism yet? If it's even possible for me to get sick of black and white done in über clean cuts, then I guess I sort of am. However, Costume National kept me clicking picture after picture, with details here and there catching my eye. It was interesting to see the theme of asymmetricality run from garment to garment, taking on the form of an immensely low cut bodice with 1.5 lapels to that citron one-sleeved blazer. The accessories also looked perfectly clean and structured--I would love to own that multi-pocketed white bag with the navy strap in look trés. 

MARNI I feel like I haven't really fell in LOVE with Marni collections as much as I did when I first started following the runway scene a few years ago. This SS14 collection truly captured my attention, though, for a variety of reasons. The label's impeccable taste in textiles/prints was evident in the stunning linear floral print of the second ensemble. I love the juxtaposition - the fluidity and organic aspects of the pieces interposed with straight belts and a few boxy cuts. The floral appliques were hands down my favorite part, adding gorgeous texture, sheen, and wow factor to a simple track jacket and pencil skirt among other pieces. 

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO I am increasingly pleased with the direction Salvatore Ferragamo has been going in womenswear as of late. An extremely luxurious take on utilitarian outerwear, the trench was one of the first looks, redone in a fresh white with silver hardware with numerous jackets in creamy beige tones keeping collection ever-evolving from start to finish. The construction of the pleated skirts with the "caping" (can you call it that? caping?) detail diagonally over the front with the buckle is honestly so amazing. I would love to get my hands on a skirt like that. The collection ended with two deep navy looks, and that last dress grabbed my attention--though subtle and rather simple, it flowed so elegantly. 

ICEBERG Two words - futuristic kawaii. I'm very much into the colored and patterned paneling on those amazing jackets/pullovers, which somehow give me an astronaut-y vibe. I especially love the fourth look, with the Japanese appliqued onto the opaque body of the pullover and paired with the holographic strip skirt... too good! Overall, it was a very fresh and youthful collection that I would totally wear.

GIANFRANCO FERRE What a great collection to finish off Milan. Essentially the antithesis of all over-the-top pageantry (think Dolce & Gabbana, Moschino) that is signature to MFW, Gianfranco Ferre was a clean cut and pleasant deviation. Sharp lines were juxtaposed with several fluid silhouettes and waterfall constructions while obi style belts cinched the paperlike waists, in the spirit of the origami look and Japanese aura to the collection (which I personally perceived). Bravo!!! images via style.com
Hope you enjoyed my Milan fashion week round-up! Paris started yesterday, so stay tuned for my favorites from #PFW! xx INSTAGRAM | BLOGLOVIN' | FACEBOOK

SS14 | London Round-up

EUDON CHOI I'm so happy that one of the opening collections for LFW was Eudon Choi. The beautiful garments maintained the clean lines and minimalism from New York but had an extra "something" to them with the sporadic appearance of delicate florals and other prints. Florals and stripes are done quite often (think your local Forever 21 or even some SS13 stuff) but it was impeccably executed in the top and matching skirt. My absolute favorite ensemble of the collection, though, had to be the navy robe and pajama-esque trousers--if only I could roll out of bed and look that chic in the morning. 

PETER PILOTTO I think it goes without saying that I always look forward to Pilotto's collections when fashion week comes around. His keen ability to do prints in new and innovative ways season after season is truly admirable, and he is one of the few "prints-based" designers that I love unconditionally. This season, we were presented with a gorgeous palette of cool pastels on boxy cut tops juxtaposed with creased skirts. The origami like folds on the short sleeved blouses, cropped jackets, and folded skirts look so stunning with the ebbing colors and prints of the other pieces--in all it reminds me so much of the origami paper I used as a child when folding little cranes and such. Well done, again!

ERDEM Signature Erdem florals were taken to a new level for Moralioglu's SS14 collection as a ballad in black, white, and gray along with hints of yellow and metallic sheen. Sheer paneling combined with florals and lace were refreshingly modern in the silhouettes--I am obsessed with the sheer layered skirt of the first look and the double breastpocketed jacket in the third. Compared to vibrancy of his last collections, I love the overall monochromaticity of these elegant looks, it really ups the luxe feel of the pieces. 

CHRISTOPHER KANE Kane really dissected the floral trend for this collection, and by dissected I mean a botanical examination of flora. His rather scientific approach could be seen in the c-section graphics and labeling of various organs and I personally saw a clinical, lab-like quality in a few of the paneled dresses with the sharp edges and metal fixtures. What I love about this collection is how he took such a basic and essential spring trend ("florals for spring? groundbreaking.") and extended his aesthetic into so many different realms with the essence and motif of the flower. From the petal cutouts to the laser-cut c-sections to the gemstone detailing in lieu of straps, Kane really did an applause-worthy job in reinventing the wheel (florals) for SS14. 

PREEN Another reinterpretation of florals for spring, Bregazzi's collection was a stunning balance of geometrical solid colored constructions and digitally rendered flowers. Subtle details like tiny perforations/cutouts along the seams and silver hardware on the shoulders and skirts of some pieces showed craftsmanship without adding heavily to the already impactful prints. I think my favorite part of the collection was how the floral quilt-like digital prints mirrored and complemented the angularity of Bregazzi's clean cuts. 

J.W. ANDERSON Ah, the most anticipated show of LFW and the talk of the town (ok, just my circle of friends). I am happy and relieved to see that it wasn't too resemblant to his last few collections, as I was beginning to feel a monotony within them. This season, Anderson played with mixing new textures and asymmetrical details. I loved the use of the singular fringe trim across the shoulders and on the skirt of the third look, as well as the shrunken sweater as a "backless top" in the fifth look. The marshmallow-esque top (don't lie, you were thinking it too) with the yellow skirt was also a fantastic ensemble. In all, it was very springy but subtly and J.W.Anderson-ly so.  images via style.com
Hope you enjoyed my LFW roundup!  Today marked the beginning of Milan so keep an eye out for those too!
xx INSTAGRAM | BLOGLOVIN' | FACEBOOK

SS14 | NYFW I

SALLY LAPOINTE Sally Lapointe is inarguably one of the rising stars to watch in the NY market. Her aesthetic stays true season after season and it is done without fail--simple and sleek separates layered to perfection. The fluctuation of volume accompanies the eclectic accessories so well; I love the shark tooth shaped leather collars and the molded belts in leather and other cool materials (is that plexiglass?!!?). The draping of the last dress is also really killing me right now. 
SUNO It is always a fun, refreshing surprise to see what printed textiles Suno generates for each of their collections. The stunning patterns really maximize the effect of the pieces, from the boxy grid dress on Xiao Wen (I met her last night, she is absolutely adorable and sweet in person!) to the organic shapes in the brocade/jacquard of the stunning layered dress in the last look. I love the airy whimsicality of it all too; those wild animals in a few of the looks keep it fun and give the eyes something new to look at--cool details can sometimes push a collection past one's expectations. 

HELMUT LANG With a nod (better yet, full embrace) to the high point of the Helmut Lang brand, the ss14 collection returned to its '90s roots and did so in a beautiful and languid manner. Modernity invigorated the minimalistic aesthetic by the means of barely there hardware, artistic paneling, and the presence of the stunning pink hue in a few of the slip dresses. I applaud this collection head to toe (the footwear is making me swoon!) and would wear Look #4 in a heartbeat! 

CHADWICK BELL As you can already see, the resurgence of minimalism on the runways is big for the ss14 season. Although definitely referential to other designs seen previously (Celine anyone?), I am nonetheless in total love. Boxy sleeves get me every time and when done in monochrome black & white or whispery pastels they can not go wrong. Also, let's discuss the insanity that is the sheer skirt and those barely-there chokers !! 

LISA PERRY So I think a majority of the appeal of this collection comes from the "themed" quality of it. Perry only sent white designs down the runway and they were a fantastic contrast to the turf green of the tennis court-esque carpeting. Design wise, I thoroughly enjoyed the variety she was able to produce on a white palette. The almost apron-like silhouettes were interspersed with a healthy dosage of clinical feeling shifts, sleek separates, and cool cable knit motifs. The sweatbands and white slip ons were totally on point accessorizing, too.
Check back in a few for more NYFW coverage as it continues onto next week!
xx
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COUTURE FW13 | Top 10

BOUCHRA JARRAR

I have to say I was pleasantly surprised by Bouchra Jarrar this season. Personally, I feel like her garments are safe and rather average. Although I understand that it is couture in the sense of being completely handmade, "couture" collections usually resonate as something distinctly different from RTW, you feel me? (Not saying that everyone has to do it like Galliano did in his time at Dior though, haha) This collection was very luxe and contemporary, something I feel like I haven't seen in the past few collections. I loved the draped chains and metallic accents paired with the crisp trousers and wrapped tops. Absolutely would wear look #2 if I had the chance, 10/10.

ZUHAIR MURAD

Each season, Elie Saab and Zuhair Murad send the most ethereal and impossibly divine creations down the couture runways. Even so, look after look of sheer, head-to-toe dazzlingly embellished floor sweeping gowns in a series of colors tend to get old fast. Thankfully, Murad's color story was rather interesting and he did not prolong the looks to Saab lengths (I don't think there need to be 10 gowns in every color, in my opinion); these three purple-hued beauties were among the few stand-outs. 

I love how the graphic of the bare branched trees in the flowing skirt very organically morphs into delicate beaded branches on the bodice. Same for the lavender gown--it's as if they're a heavenly second skin (can I have one?). Although metallic fabric is something I'm not quite keen on, the shimmering indigo of the middle gown caught my eye, especially the beautiful way the bodice is constructed. 

 ALEXIS MABILLE

I loved this collection for the reason I love most of Mabille's collections, the same signature theatricality was brought to the table. With voluminous silhouettes, full skirts, and fine handiwork visible at every corner, the collection was elegant, aesthetically pleasing, yet thought-provoking at the same time. The pink beaded frock reminded me of my overtly feminine childhood dresses while the stunning high collared black gown had me thinking of Disney villainess Maleficent. Also, I love that lace application in the second gown, perfect!

 GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

Pillowy billows of fabric that look plush enough to sleep in are a great addition to any collection if done well. I love the placement of the periwinkle overskirt, allowing for some embellishments on the black skirt to peek from underneath. Also, look at that gold ribbon tied around the white gown! Is it a present for me? (Please?) The uber cool modified peplum with scatterings of faded florals was one of my favorite looks in the collection. Lastly, cascading flowers on a gown will never get old for me. I love the wrapped fabric on the shoulder, however; it gives the gown a special twist. 

VALENTINO

Valentino is similar to Murad and Saab in that we see the same elegantly tailored, princess-y yet matronly frock or gown and ensuing variations from start to finish with a few embellishments here and there. With this collection, I was happy to see a little deviation from the usual, although most of the "deviations" were not particularly aesthetically pleasing to me (thus, not pictured above ^). My three favorite looks were all very clean cut and rather simple in design and look; the luxe gold brocade/jacquard flower garden on the sharply cut separates in the first look and the pearly tapestries transposed on the cool cut-out cape sleeved beige gown were stunning. I also had to include my favorite signature Valentino red gown, I love the geometric collar detail of it!

 YIQING YIN

This season was probably my first time coming across Yin's incredible work. I researched her a bit and found out that she was one of the few chosen to be guest couturiers with the Chambre Syndicale. As a returning couturier, she did GREAT this season. Swathed tops flowed into whispers of sheer, fluid skirts in an interesting palette of neutrals and muted tones while a few looks were more structured (see: crazy ribbed bodice of the gray look) but still had that airy, feathery feel (the fluffy looking grayscale ombre skirt). I can't wait to see what she sends down the runway next season. 

RAD HOURANI I can always count on Rad Hourani to wow me with his monochromed unisex collections. Couture is no different, with an exceptional array of finely tailored separates for guys and girls. The layering on the first look is rather insane but I'm getting so much inspiration for fall dressing. A great big lapeled leather jacket can do no wrong while the flaps of layered leather make for a cool hem on that coat. Also, let's talk about the ninja turtle-esque / frontal backpack look, because it's giving me so much life right now. 

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
I loved this confusingly cool collection by the inconspicuous team at Margiela. It opened with sleek leather separates and closed with languid silk gowns; the whole collection was interspersed with the most banal of denim bottoms but obviously maintained a Margiela touch with the various bejeweled masks. Flowers took on three different forms in the garments, from tapestry-esque weaves to 3-D pieces and flat embroideries. I came to appreciate the collection much more after viewing the up-close detail shots of the pieces (see:). The crystalline heel and arm cuffs were a stunning addition and the agate slice top is something else entirely while the seeming white envelope clutches were in fact invitations with the models' names written on the guest line (so awesome!!!). The devil's in the details.  

VIKTOR & ROLF
All black is a force to be reckoned with and Viktor & Rolf proved it 100% this couture season. I was continuously "ooh"ing and "aahhh"ing at look after look. The looks were cocoon-like concoctions and columnar garments that enveloped the models with beautifully draped and cut blackness.  Some had amazing fringe details that perfectly complemented the stark black with interesting texture. I don't know how to explain my love for this collection but it is definitely belongs in my top 3 (out of the top 10, haha). 

CHRISTIAN DIOR
Ah, Dior. Like many people in the fashion world, I was genuinely baffled at the collection. It initially appeared to be a multitude of various other fashion references reinterpreted into a single collection (Vera Wang, Celine, Armani, Prada, Jil Sander anyone?). Though gorgeous, it didn't seem uniquely or cohesively Dior to me. Nonetheless, the garments were each so stunning and truly well made--my favorite looks were the strong black and cream gowns reminiscent of Jil Sander days. 
Ultimately, Tim Blanks' review cleared the air and truly clarified the inspiration and intent behind Simons' collection for the iconic French house.   It was best said by Blanks:
"That's exactly how the clothes appeared: a different kind of dynamic in couture. Europe shared catwalk space with the Americas, Asia, and Africa: A revamped Bar jacket was followed by a sporty navy blouson; a strapless dress in tiers of spacey shibori (the Japanese process that produces that peculiar spiky fabric) preceded another strapless number vibrantly banded in shiny tribal colors. Dior himself was something of an internationalist (each collection, Simons reproduces two dresses by the old master as an homage), so it would have made sense to him. It should be said that there were some today who saw chaos in need of an edit. They missed the point: The mix was everything." images via style.com, elle.com, and wwd.com xx INSTAGRAM | BLOGLOVIN' | FACEBOOK

MENSWEAR SS14 | Milan Round-up

 JIL SANDER

Jil Sander's second season back at Jil Sander (ha) is looking good at the moment. Clean cut layers of snow whites with hints and accents of bright oranges and corals kept my eyes on the lookout for other fine details. I can't get enough of the boxy collared shirts and that amazing patent white jacket. Right now, I have been inspired with a need for a pair of crisp, single front pleat trousers in some bright warm hue. 

 LES HOMMES
Leather, leather, leather. The leather tees were what initially drew me in as I admired the first colorblocked look and the consequent leather accents (the silk and leather paneling on those two suits too!!). My last two favorite looks consisted of revamped bomber jackets with sheen, leather sleeves, and cool prints.

GUCCI Florals for spring? Groundbreaking. But I loved how Gianni pulled it off for menswear in a non-tacky or too tryhard way. Mixed with a cool array of futuristic looking utilitarian pieces with clean lines, the collection refrained from an overpowering of the floral motif. That buttery looking leather camel coat is speaking to me right now.  

Z ZEGNA If Ermenegildo Zegna was good, then Z Zegna was better. Although a few outerwear pieces at EZ were much more sophisticated and lust-worthy than some of the ones here, the ZZ collection as a whole was very appealing and I would definitely wear some of those pieces. The palette transitioned from dark blacks and blues (love that teal in the moto jacket, 2nd look) to muted pastels of peach, beige, and baby blue. Last mention - that all white summer shorts, shirt, jacket look is soooo good (yes, 5 o's necessary). 

MARC JACOBS I think I have a weird thing for pastel suits done right; that ice blue and salmon pairing is seriously so amazing. A few grey looks were also superb, but what I love most is that last plaid shirt, it's a need. 
images via style.com
xx
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RESORT '14 III

J.W. ANDERSON Anderson's much-hyped collab with Versus x Versace has already put him at the forefront of fashion but in all honestly, I'd much rather forget about Donatella and focus on his stunning individual work. I am such a fan of his no-fuss, clean-cut, and almost clinical aesthetic. The basic geometry that is integral to his work is made interesting with his various textural pairings--from that crinkled vellum look of the translucent top to the fringey draped top and the paper-esque skirt. Also, who doesn't love over-the-top volume? 

STELLA MCCARTNEY I was crying at my instagram feed when it was filled with lovely snaps from McCartney's garden party showing for her equally beautiful resort collection in NYC. I loved the femininity of the pieces and the adorable details (see: lips, hearts, matches, diamante pieces on that kitschy blush frock) as well as the various silhouettes. I never thought there would come a day that a ruched waistline/drop-waist would ever look as good as the one in the third look. 

OPENING CEREMONY I don't think I will ever get over my obsession of voluminous, rounded sleeves. IRL, it's probably one of the hardest things to pull off (if you're a model, no biggie, but for the rest of us...). It's been done by so many for quite a few seasons now but it's still a silhouette I love. Do it in an ice blue and stick it in a collection with perfectly contrasting sharply cut skirts and I'll fall in love. I'm quite obsessed with the buckle/strap fixtures on the jackets and skirts too (DIY anyone?).

THOM BROWNE

I don't know why, but Browne's pieces always remind me of Alice in Wonderland. I think the imagery that's installed in my mind courtesy of Disney just seems to correlate with his otherworldly and whimsical touch. This collection had me thinking of maze gardens and the Cheshire Cat with the various green hues, organic motifs, and endless stripes. No matter how weird or unwearable his looks may be, they're always extremely fun to ponder.

PETER PILOTTO Digital prints have, and will likely for a long time to come, always been a favorite of mine. I loved the use of nature and floral patterns on boxy dresses and angular sleeves. The second dress with that endless mirror tunnel / receding frame graphic is amazing. images via style.com xx INSTAGRAM | BLOGLOVIN' | FACEBOOK

RESORT 14' II

 ROCHAS

To be honest, I was uninterested in the first half of this collection but the dresses later on caught my attention. A dress that could otherwise be very "grandma" was slit up the thigh with a tiny belt, adding an instant chic factor. I'm also obsessed with the fantastic paper-like texture on that green skirt and the volume of the pink dress. Lastly--I will never get over my obsession of orange and purple/blue, it's one of my favorite color pairings.

 BALENCIAGA

Mr. Wang did another cool black and white job this season. Drawing from what appears like Balenciaga heritage, he successfully executed pieces with round silhouettes, strong drapery, and controlled volume like the stunning dresses and separates throughout. The fringey sandals and hats are growing on me too...

3.1 PHILLIP LIM

I literally had to sort down my favorite looks to 6 in this collection; everything was just so incredibly wearable and appealing. I loved the overall athletic look in the pieces, from the boxy look of the short sleeves on the shift dresses to the track pants and bermudas (sheer...so perfect). I was also astounded by the color palette, which spanned from amalgamation of brights to all neutrals in a flawless manner. Also, the accessories are so on point--give me those blue sandals ASAP. 

CALVIN KLEIN

I always look forward to what Costa does every season as a minimalist. I am always intrigued by the way he seamlessly incorporates hardware into his designs; last seasons large, pilgrim-esque belts were replaced by thin, refined buckles for this collection. The collection just makes me want to wear crop tops ad loose maxi skirts everywhere I possibly can for the summer. Bravo. 

images via style.com

xx

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RESORT '14 Loves

 REED KRAKOFF

Crisp cuts, a minimal palette, and a prevalence of white make this collection a stunning batch of wearable and, I imagine, comfortable pieces for the ultimate summer/"resort" wardrobe. I've been seeing the perforated textiles for what seems like forever, but the fourth look with the pullover is truly done right. I love the juxtaposition of the knit with the buttery leather; also, something about pure white and simple silhouettes ups the luxe factor by 200%...

 THAKOON

More whites, please! I'm really digging the effortless feel of these garments, from the sheer paneled printed frock to the pale blue jumpsuit with the lace/eyelet overlay. I love how collection is still cohesive with the pure white even with the sudden injection of stark black graphics; those stripes are PERFECTION. (As much as I hate to say it, Thakoon has presented a prime knockoff base for a fast fashion retailer, 4 letters, won't say who, you know... imitation is the sincerest form of flattery?)

THEYSKEN'S THEORY First off, bravo to casting Hanne for this, she complements / fits the clothing so well. I love the play on volume throughout the pieces, from the baggy, oh-so-covetable boyfriend jeans to the wispy floor length dresses. I am absolutely obsessing over the styling of the pieces too. 

DKNY

It seems like the athletic / sporty look isn't going anywhere soon. The baseball caps and occasional menswear inspired silhouette had me thinking Neil Barrett (anyone?). I love the contrast of the masculine and feminine with those stunning paneled frocks. On the other hand, the shoe game is on point... and someone get me that mesh moto jacket right now. 

images via style.com

xx

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