SS14 | London Round-up

EUDON CHOI I'm so happy that one of the opening collections for LFW was Eudon Choi. The beautiful garments maintained the clean lines and minimalism from New York but had an extra "something" to them with the sporadic appearance of delicate florals and other prints. Florals and stripes are done quite often (think your local Forever 21 or even some SS13 stuff) but it was impeccably executed in the top and matching skirt. My absolute favorite ensemble of the collection, though, had to be the navy robe and pajama-esque trousers--if only I could roll out of bed and look that chic in the morning. 

PETER PILOTTO I think it goes without saying that I always look forward to Pilotto's collections when fashion week comes around. His keen ability to do prints in new and innovative ways season after season is truly admirable, and he is one of the few "prints-based" designers that I love unconditionally. This season, we were presented with a gorgeous palette of cool pastels on boxy cut tops juxtaposed with creased skirts. The origami like folds on the short sleeved blouses, cropped jackets, and folded skirts look so stunning with the ebbing colors and prints of the other pieces--in all it reminds me so much of the origami paper I used as a child when folding little cranes and such. Well done, again!

ERDEM Signature Erdem florals were taken to a new level for Moralioglu's SS14 collection as a ballad in black, white, and gray along with hints of yellow and metallic sheen. Sheer paneling combined with florals and lace were refreshingly modern in the silhouettes--I am obsessed with the sheer layered skirt of the first look and the double breastpocketed jacket in the third. Compared to vibrancy of his last collections, I love the overall monochromaticity of these elegant looks, it really ups the luxe feel of the pieces. 

CHRISTOPHER KANE Kane really dissected the floral trend for this collection, and by dissected I mean a botanical examination of flora. His rather scientific approach could be seen in the c-section graphics and labeling of various organs and I personally saw a clinical, lab-like quality in a few of the paneled dresses with the sharp edges and metal fixtures. What I love about this collection is how he took such a basic and essential spring trend ("florals for spring? groundbreaking.") and extended his aesthetic into so many different realms with the essence and motif of the flower. From the petal cutouts to the laser-cut c-sections to the gemstone detailing in lieu of straps, Kane really did an applause-worthy job in reinventing the wheel (florals) for SS14. 

PREEN Another reinterpretation of florals for spring, Bregazzi's collection was a stunning balance of geometrical solid colored constructions and digitally rendered flowers. Subtle details like tiny perforations/cutouts along the seams and silver hardware on the shoulders and skirts of some pieces showed craftsmanship without adding heavily to the already impactful prints. I think my favorite part of the collection was how the floral quilt-like digital prints mirrored and complemented the angularity of Bregazzi's clean cuts. 

J.W. ANDERSON Ah, the most anticipated show of LFW and the talk of the town (ok, just my circle of friends). I am happy and relieved to see that it wasn't too resemblant to his last few collections, as I was beginning to feel a monotony within them. This season, Anderson played with mixing new textures and asymmetrical details. I loved the use of the singular fringe trim across the shoulders and on the skirt of the third look, as well as the shrunken sweater as a "backless top" in the fifth look. The marshmallow-esque top (don't lie, you were thinking it too) with the yellow skirt was also a fantastic ensemble. In all, it was very springy but subtly and J.W.Anderson-ly so.  images via style.com
Hope you enjoyed my LFW roundup!  Today marked the beginning of Milan so keep an eye out for those too!
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LFW | FW13 Round-up

EMILIO DE LA MORENA Slitted skirts have been all the rage on the runways and the streets as of late. I was especially intrigued by the thickened basket-weave pieces both on the knits and trousers. Geometric constructions and patterns in the dresses and the recurring "v" motif rounded this collection out nicely. 

PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND 3 C's - Crisp, clean, and classic. Of course, there was a great sense of modernity to the otherwise classic wardrobe pieces of coats, pleated trousers, and knit dresses. I loved the texture added by the ribbing and the fine patterning of the first few pieces as well as the pocketing and other details on that blue coat. 

ANTONIO BERARDI Curving silhouettes and strong straight lines / ballooning proportions paired with slim fitting bottoms are the way to my sartorial heart. I loved the patchwork-like piecing of the different solid and printed components and the general construction of each of his  garments, from the pleated skirts to the floor-dusting coats. 

JOSEPH God bless the beautiful combination of chunky knitwear and tapered trousers (and skirt-over-pants...although realistically it ain't happening for most of us). It simply does not get better than colorblocked sweaters and finely tailored trousers/pleated skirts. This collection is truly exemplar of how to layer with rather oversized proportions. All three sweaters, please! images via style.com and that concludes London! Welcome, #MFW :) xx INSTAGRAM | BLOGLOVIN' | FACEBOOK

LFW | FW13 part II

 PETER PILOTTO

I think it's safe to say that Pilotto has captivated me and stunned me season after season with his beautiful digital renderings on beautifully constructed garments. The strong linear motifs, geometric fragments, and symmetrical prints that bedeck his bold silhouettes seem to always resonate deeply within me. To say it simply, Pilotto's collections are always an aesthetic treat for my eyes. 

J.W. ANDERSON

Anderson's womenswear collection seemed to have inklings of the same vibe from his most recent line for menswear. Drawing on the same sort of restrained and almost matronly feminity, we saw those crisp  lines and boxy shapes, all topped off with fine details (the darted necklines and gathering of the fabric in unexpected places-perfection). The purist color palette of black and white with occasional pops of color really maximized the voice of this collection, too. 

CHRISTOPHER KANE
Major points for Prabal and Christopher this season for successfully pulling off military this season--call it neo-military. I loved the way he meshed the lustrous fabric with camouflage and how he took the motif of trim of an 18th century soldier's coat and created that trellis-like pattern and executed an edgy minidress. The texture in the last frock was also phenomenal. 

SIMONE ROCHA It was girly and delicately feminine without the major frills and over-pinkification. A fabulous bounty of clean-cut coats in different pinks lead the collection then gave way to my favorite part of this collection, the one-hipped ruffle. It came in that floaty eyelet rendition as well as sparkly black towards the end, fitting beautifully with the plush cream fur. 

NICOLE FARHI This collection may as well be my definition of true RTW. Really fantastic basics cut to a tee, swoon-worthy color palette, and the INCREDIBLE footwear had me wanting to go out and purchase as many coats and knits as possible, stat. We get a magnificent lesson in layering here, with the gorgeously structured coats stacked upon multicolored sweaters upon crisp button ups--and then those great trousers below. #goals.  images via style.com xx INSTAGRAM | BLOGLOVIN' | FACEBOOK

LFW | FW13 part I

 MARY KATRANTZOU
Season after season, Mary doles out her signature digital prints on finely tailored frocks and gowns that are of reasonably wearable nature. I was pleasantly surprised to find some otherwise unconventional silhouettes (perhaps inspired by the eastern tradition? Kimonos anyone?) going down the runway, with lots of beautiful volume involved. Wintry city landscapes, rain-splattered cobblestones in London, and many a dreamy snow-capped scene were the perfect fit for a slightly gloomier fall collection, with its palettes of hazy grays and icy blues. 

PREEN  Black, white, and red all over. The poppy fire-engine red that speckled Bregazzi's fall collection for Preen brought those graphic prints to the next level chic. Zipper details, outlined collars, and boxy cuts peppered with that cool pixelated animal print, then topped off with beautiful floral diamante embellishments in a lattice like pattern - perfect. 

JEAN PIERRE BRAGANZA

More prints please! Braganza sent some phenomenal pieces down the runway, including very sharp suits and languid gowns all covered in the ultra-cool linear pattern over a graying ombre background. Later on in the collection, he moved towards a deconstructed look with colorblocked basics such as a oversized collared shirt paired with a cascading asymmetrical skirt. 

DAVID KOMA

I always look forward to viewing his collections come fashion week. His mastery with cutting fabric to create something so avant garde yet seemingly wearable is what I find so intriguing. The record disc-esque leather detailing on the flouncy skirts and dresses paired with equally well-done motorcycle pieces easily brought the line up to "worthy collection" status. 

images via style.com
xx
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