FASHION WEEK FINALE - Paris

 JEAN-CHARLES DE CASTELBAJAC

This label is the best when it comes to kitschy subtleties, especially the prints and patterns. The span of graphic motifs throughout this collection was incredible, from the blown-up cable knit cocoon minidress and the screw and safety pin print of the pantsuit to the pre-raphaelite Ophelia (yay for art history references!) in Millais' brilliant brushstrokes. Also, that fox head bodice!

 MIU MIU

After being sadly disappointed by Prada, my fading interest with Miuccia's work was reinvigorated with the arrival of Miu Miu. The classic utilitarian jacket was given a stylish twist and presented in off-the-shoulder hot oranges and navies with large zippers and belted to perfection. The enlargened lapel folding off of the shoulders of the coats was an eye-catching detail along with other aspects such as the dotted neck scarfs and lustrous footwear. Interestingly enough, the more I examine this collection, the more I like it. Bravo. 

VALENTINO I will admit that there have been times where I felt like Maria and Paolo were verging on the matronly/puritan border with their high neck, tight wrist, floor grazing, solid colored dresses, but this collection definitely had a more youthful aspect to it. Quaint frocks done in prim collars, cuffs, and pearl accents were sleek yet equally as elegant as the china floral dresses towards the end. Modern-day princess wear is what it is! 

CHANEL Karl went for an edge this season, sending me messages that mildly referenced his FW11 grunge collection. A predominantly edgy gray and black palette with an abundance of glimmering details, leather, and bountiful hardware kept this collection from verging into middle-aged wear. Again, I love the rounded billowing silhouette of his tweed sets as well as the modern aspects of the high front hem of the first coat to the sweatshirt-y top of the last look. 
images via style.com
This post concludes my month-long coverage of the New York, London, Milan, and Paris, I hope you enjoyed my thoughts and trifles :) If you missed any coverage or just want some fashion week highlights, click HERE for all my runway reviews! 
xx
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PFW | FW13 part V

 DION LEE

Lee has been one of my favorite designers to watch ever since Tommy Tom profiled one of his incredible collections at Australia fashion week a while ago. With a penchant for sharp, angular constructions and insanely cool graphic prints (note--those atmosphere storm pics!), Lee still manages to bring something fresh and eye-catching to the table each season. Something about the cut of his pieces is just so refreshing and aesthetically pleasing. 

 GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

I will admit that I found little to no cohesion throughout this collection, but that I loved some of the looks individually. The array of grecian drapery and furry patch looks in muted pastels caught my attention, but it was the vibrant vermillion look that kept me clicking. A floral pantsuit and intricately beaded neckline don't hurt either. 

 CHLOE

I was intrigued by the effortless mood that Keller created in this fall collection (almost had a spring-y feel to it!). From the airy swiss-dots in paneled blouses and tutu-skirts to the amazing chain-link fence dress (still swooning), the pieces spoke to the Chloe heritage but maintained an air of updated modernity. 

 PACO RABANNE

I think we all know Paco Rabanne for his chain-mail dresses. It was great seeing a fresh reinvention of such a unique piece in different ways, seeing that it became a collared shirtdress and jumpsuit (or so I see?). Also, that intricately pleated silver skirt is everything. 

STELLA MCCARTNEY I need to get the major shoe vibes out of the way before I speak about the collection. Anything platform-tread-sole captures my attention like nothing else.  As for McCartney's collection, I enjoyed the effortless draping and comfortable aura to the well-tailored pieces. The superimposing of aspects like tartan and pinstripes onto exaggerated silhouettes all in the spirit of menswear was what drew me in. Also, you all probably know by now that rounded sleeves and bulky volume are my thing. 
images via style.com
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PFW | FW13 Part II

 CARVEN

Excellently tailored outerwear pieces are truly Henry's strong point. From cotton candy pinks and powder blues to light camels, the layered looks had me wanting a head-to-toe monochrome look myself. I was very pleased with this collection, albeit confused by the zebra-esque motif on a few of the pieces. Give me flouting lapels and oversized volume or give me fashion death.

BALENCIAGA

The man of the hour pulled it off! Did you know that Alexander Wang only began working on this debut collection for the iconic Parisian fashion house at the BEGINNING OF LAST MONTH ?  The thought of this being pulled together in a matter of weeks (despite an inconceivable amount of thought and planning, naturally) is truly astonishing.
The palette of black, white, and grays was expected for safety, but he rather succesfully executed very well-cut pieces that meshed his own skills with historic Balenciaga silhouettes and volumes. Also, let's discuss the amazing crackling and marbling on the gorgeous dipped hem coats and pullovers. Who's ready for his next collection?

 BALMAIN

Rousteing took us back to the '80s, and at first I did not appreciate it. Fortunately, aside from the severity of the power shoulders and attention to volume, I enjoyed the spectacular jewel tones and splendor of the gem/jewel-like effect of the metallic garments. I was able to appreciate the pieces most when considering them separate from the rest of the look; I would definitely wear the blue mini on Liu Wen. 

 LANVIN

HELP! HOT! COOL! YOU! LOVE! The loudness of the cheeky neckwear pieces were mollified by their pairings with Elbaz' signature Lanvin cuts. The organic floral details (love the 3-D detailing!) and the texture of the frocks all throughout had me in love. It was a new tale of romance for the house of Lanvin.

UNDERCOVER

Kitsch and dare I say weirdness were two of the factors that drew me to this collection. First, the intricate and gilded masquerade masks in bunny and feline forms perfectly matched the youthful proportions and details throughout the collection--the cropped cardigan with an animal graphic, the cut-paper construction of that fantastic white skirt. I also thought the military jacket with the ribcage detail was really clever. The transformation of a button up into a multi-layered and swan-like white frock in the fourth look kept my interest as the collection progressed towards bunched and scrunched up dresses in exaggerated silhouettes. 
images via style.com
xx
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PFW | FW13 Part I

 CEDRIC CHARLIER

Charlier did embellishments right this season, with sprigs of floral details and whispery veils of beading sprayed over piece after piece. These airy overlays were incorporated into beautiful textured frocks and in the dainty sheer patches on the last two blouses. Charlier pulled off a very delicate yet grounded collection with a great balance between dainty creams and strong blacks.

GARETH PUGH

A bare-bones wintry austerity was present in Pugh's latest collection, where straight lines and angular volume reigned supreme. The origami-like folds of the necklines and skirt details paired with the all-around impeccable construction of the garments was fantastic, while we were given a surprise by the sparsest notion of a graphic detail in the frail, naked branches that decorated the hems of some pieces.

 GUY LAROCHE

The combination of leather and any furry texture is hard to pull off, but this collection did it well. This could partially be attributed to the fact that there were such few looks that had both elements, but also because they were just very well done. If you read my posts you will also know that I have an affinity for all things motorcycle so the fuschia vest of the second look falls under that category. That vibrant head-to-knee purple also caught my attention, as did the great navy cape of the last look.

MUGLER

Nicola Formichetti continues to stun me with the things he produces for the house of Mugler season after season. Although we did see some simpler garments with rather minimalistic undertones, he still kept those futuristic details and silhouettes that I've come to associate him with at Mugler. The splash of a furry/hairy patch of orange across a muted gray top (with ends trailing behind), the paper-like bonnet, and the 3-D cutout motifs in the fourth and fifth looks-so cool. 

CHRISTOPHER LEMAIRE Lemaire's fall collection was a genuine reflection of Parisian sensibility and Paris' eye for the simple yet chic. Tailored blazers and trousers, pullovers, and blouses in elegantly loose proportions make me want to simplify my wardrobe so badly. I'll take a pair of black pants and that oversized sweater, please. 
images via style.com
xx
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MFW | FW13 Part I

GABRIELE COLANGELO

I can't resist a collection of delicate beiges and nudes amongst a sea of black and dark glamour driven fall collections during Milan (see: Gucci). Slinky silk trousers contrasted with the elegantly cut outerwear really nicely. I really enjoyed the shaggy rug-like texture and look of the second woven top in a mixture of creams. Also, those snakeskin cap/pointy-toed ankle boots--perfection. 

BLUMARINE

What an absolutely pleasant surprise. I was previously discussing with a friend how Blumarine was not really something we paid attention to anymore, but this collection recaptured my interest! The collection seemed to be injected with a rather high volume of springy motifs and themes with the frothy pastels, floral, and whatnot, but it was executed quite well. The draped skirt silhouette of look 3 and 6 was very interesting, as was the sheen of the striped floral of look 4. Again, the palette of washed out beiges, pinks, and blues freshened up the darkness that is characteristic of most fall collections (especially in Milan, IMO). 

GUCCI

I felt like Frida Gianni was perhaps toying with too many ideas in this collection, but there were some standout pieces that I chose to post above. We saw the collection take from round-shouldered boxy coats with floral embroidery, then enter into trouser territory, and finally transform into some dark, glittering bird of paradise. My favorite looks were the ones that had voices of their own--the strong shouldered and hip-accentuating brocade/jacquard top and trousers, the powder blue coat with extra-large lapels, and the feathery dress wrought with embellishment. I can imagine that last number swishing down the reflective runway, and I didn't even watch the livestream-HA. 

 SPORTMAX

Voluminous skirts have been on my mind lately (second to those cool slit skirts). Fantastic circle cuts paired with perfectly constructed outerwear tops brought this collection to a whole new level. A fully bejeweled blouse cut like a tee, the metallic paper bag clutches, the socks and heels--all great details that maximized the appeal of this collection. 

MAXMARA

I always know that MaxMara will carry out a great collection of well-tailored basics in beautiful array of different hues. Signature neutrals like beige and camel were darkened a shade, with a caramel tone in the coats and bronzed silks. An all mustard ensemble made me smile at how well they executed a monochrome look (I'd look like a mustard packet, tbh). The midnight navy sheen of that 4th look almost oozing out like liquid mercury from underneath that jet coat was simply phenomenal. 

images via style.com

xx

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LFW | FW13 Round-up

EMILIO DE LA MORENA Slitted skirts have been all the rage on the runways and the streets as of late. I was especially intrigued by the thickened basket-weave pieces both on the knits and trousers. Geometric constructions and patterns in the dresses and the recurring "v" motif rounded this collection out nicely. 

PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND 3 C's - Crisp, clean, and classic. Of course, there was a great sense of modernity to the otherwise classic wardrobe pieces of coats, pleated trousers, and knit dresses. I loved the texture added by the ribbing and the fine patterning of the first few pieces as well as the pocketing and other details on that blue coat. 

ANTONIO BERARDI Curving silhouettes and strong straight lines / ballooning proportions paired with slim fitting bottoms are the way to my sartorial heart. I loved the patchwork-like piecing of the different solid and printed components and the general construction of each of his  garments, from the pleated skirts to the floor-dusting coats. 

JOSEPH God bless the beautiful combination of chunky knitwear and tapered trousers (and skirt-over-pants...although realistically it ain't happening for most of us). It simply does not get better than colorblocked sweaters and finely tailored trousers/pleated skirts. This collection is truly exemplar of how to layer with rather oversized proportions. All three sweaters, please! images via style.com and that concludes London! Welcome, #MFW :) xx INSTAGRAM | BLOGLOVIN' | FACEBOOK

NYFW | FW13

 CREATURES OF THE WIND

The palette of searing hot orange, deep ochre, and earth tones at Creatures of the Wind was originally what drew me in. Sharply tailored silhouettes, magnificent colorblocking, and spectacular details (diamante encrusted tie, double lapel, leather piping, YES) worked beautifully with the saturated hues. 

KIMBERLY OVITZ

I will forever be mesmerized by the drapey, languid nature of Ovitz's gowns; on the other hand, asymmetrical thigh high slit hems and deep V necklines make for a killer look. Add in some incredible graphic prints and I'm simply sold.

M. PATMOS

Marcia must teach me how to layer, because I want to be dressing like this until the weather warms up (not likely, thank you Nemo). The sleek, tailored bottoms of slit skirts and trousers look great when paired with semi-bulky outerwear pieces like the layered cardigans/sweaters and the simple but chic zippered coat. Also, the turtleneck contraption will be on my mind for a while.

TADASHI SHOJI

Ethereality is one of my personal requirements when I deem evening wear to be "beautiful." Case in point, Tadashi Shoji gave us an array of lacy cocktail frocks and dark embellished gowns but I was stunned by the icy numbers in snow white and muted blue. The high neck, princess sleeve, columnar gown translated well for the lace and chiffon as well as the velvet version. Leave it to the last look, a theatrical mermaid gown of lace and volume, to end the collection on a rather high note. 

TIMO WEILAND

Crisp pleats will get me through the darkest of days (I actually recently purchased a black skirt in the same silhouette of that metallic brocade one). I loved the overall cleanliness in the tricolored collared blouses as well as the neat knitwear. A very wearable and desirable collection indeed!

images via style.com

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