CEDRIC CHARLIERCharlier did embellishments right this season, with sprigs of floral details and whispery veils of beading sprayed over piece after piece. These airy overlays were incorporated into beautiful textured frocks and in the dainty sheer patches on the last two blouses. Charlier pulled off a very delicate yet grounded collection with a great balance between dainty creams and strong blacks.
GARETH PUGHA bare-bones wintry austerity was present in Pugh's latest collection, where straight lines and angular volume reigned supreme. The origami-like folds of the necklines and skirt details paired with the all-around impeccable construction of the garments was fantastic, while we were given a surprise by the sparsest notion of a graphic detail in the frail, naked branches that decorated the hems of some pieces.
GUY LAROCHEThe combination of leather and any furry texture is hard to pull off, but this collection did it well. This could partially be attributed to the fact that there were such few looks that had both elements, but also because they were just very well done. If you read my posts you will also know that I have an affinity for all things motorcycle so the fuschia vest of the second look falls under that category. That vibrant head-to-knee purple also caught my attention, as did the great navy cape of the last look.
Nicola Formichetti continues to stun me with the things he produces for the house of Mugler season after season. Although we did see some simpler garments with rather minimalistic undertones, he still kept those futuristic details and silhouettes that I've come to associate him with at Mugler. The splash of a furry/hairy patch of orange across a muted gray top (with ends trailing behind), the paper-like bonnet, and the 3-D cutout motifs in the fourth and fifth looks-so cool.