MENSWEAR SS14 | Paris Round-up

I think it's safe to say that Paris is blessed with the best menswear lineup. So as I dragged looks upon looks onto my desktop in hope of blogging them and having two separate posts of a total of 10 PFW favorites, it occurred to me that my timing would be a little off. I try to be punctual with my runway posts because they are such time-based things and I don't want you guys to be getting old (/stale/irrelevant) news. Therefore, I took it upon myself to exercise my judgment and editing skills--although, try as I might, refining my top favorites was extremely difficult. But here they are, a total of 6 of my favorite collections from Paris menswear.

 HAIDER ACKERMANN

The response to Ackermann's womenswear (literally, check the most recent seasons, to die for) speaks volumes about the odd universality of his aesthetic and his catering to style spectators who lust for his pieces. The same goes for his menswear--we continue to get that impeccable tailoring, signature loose fits, and rich palette in his ss14 pieces. I'm really digging the juxtaposition of the different textures as well as the dark and light hues. Give me the entire look on Cole Mohr and Paul Boche's pants, please.

 KRIS VAN ASSCHE

If you've been reading my mini reviews for the last month or so, you'll probably see the common denominator of my love for clean cuts. Especially when paired with boxy sleeves and done in solid hues of darks, brights, and whites, sharply tailored pieces make me ache for a no-fuss man's wardrobe stocked full of KvA. I love the highlight of the zipper details throughout, as well as the color choice--really loving the forest green and cerise (I just looked up this color, it's stunning). 

3.1 PHILLIP LIM If you want to talk about wearability, let's discuss 3.1 Phillip Lim. From the glimmering patched moto vest to the floral pullover, this collection screamed everything I wanted for spring. The plastic buckle detailing and otherwise minimal hardware kept me focused on the amazing garments. The iridescent beetle sheen of that bomber jacket and those serape-esque pants are killing me. 

DIOR HOMME Wow, Kris van Assche can do no wrong. The minimal palette of plum/aubergine, blue hues, and black was perfect for me. Although I was a bit bored at times, different details caught my eye as I clicked through the collection. I clearly saw Mondrian references (I'm sure Cathy Horyn probably saw something else) and they definitely solidified my love for this collection. Also, can we talk about the insane venue and runway/set? (pictures)

LANVIN Man shorts are such a thing. Although this was a man-shorts-a-plenty collection, I zoned in on the amazing outerwear pieces. Oversized overcoats and loosely cut trousers were paired with ultracool details like sleek fanny packs (yeah, I know) and sleek skinny ties. The murse in the fourth look is also kind of amazing. Overall, a very sophisticated and modern collection for the contemporary menswear man. Claps for Alber!!!

JUUN J
When I reblogged the "jersey" pullover in the second look on tumblr, it didn't occur to me that it was from the most recent collection by one of my favorite Korean designers. The marbled look and the 3-D surface print are everyone's favorite LPD tees to the next level. Voluminous shirts of exaggerated oxfords and trumpet sleeves were a comical yet fitting contrast to the short shorts on the models.  That navy coat with the collar and hood will probably haunt me in my dreams--along with that beautifully ghostly baby Kristin McMenamy with twig antlers.  images via style.com & thefashionisto.com THIS CONCLUDES my menswear coverage for the Spring Summer 2014 season, hope you enjoyed!  Click "RUNWAY" on the sidebar to see the rest of my reviews. xx INSTAGRAM | BLOGLOVIN' | FACEBOOK

FASHION WEEK FINALE - Paris

 JEAN-CHARLES DE CASTELBAJAC

This label is the best when it comes to kitschy subtleties, especially the prints and patterns. The span of graphic motifs throughout this collection was incredible, from the blown-up cable knit cocoon minidress and the screw and safety pin print of the pantsuit to the pre-raphaelite Ophelia (yay for art history references!) in Millais' brilliant brushstrokes. Also, that fox head bodice!

 MIU MIU

After being sadly disappointed by Prada, my fading interest with Miuccia's work was reinvigorated with the arrival of Miu Miu. The classic utilitarian jacket was given a stylish twist and presented in off-the-shoulder hot oranges and navies with large zippers and belted to perfection. The enlargened lapel folding off of the shoulders of the coats was an eye-catching detail along with other aspects such as the dotted neck scarfs and lustrous footwear. Interestingly enough, the more I examine this collection, the more I like it. Bravo. 

VALENTINO I will admit that there have been times where I felt like Maria and Paolo were verging on the matronly/puritan border with their high neck, tight wrist, floor grazing, solid colored dresses, but this collection definitely had a more youthful aspect to it. Quaint frocks done in prim collars, cuffs, and pearl accents were sleek yet equally as elegant as the china floral dresses towards the end. Modern-day princess wear is what it is! 

CHANEL Karl went for an edge this season, sending me messages that mildly referenced his FW11 grunge collection. A predominantly edgy gray and black palette with an abundance of glimmering details, leather, and bountiful hardware kept this collection from verging into middle-aged wear. Again, I love the rounded billowing silhouette of his tweed sets as well as the modern aspects of the high front hem of the first coat to the sweatshirt-y top of the last look. 
images via style.com
This post concludes my month-long coverage of the New York, London, Milan, and Paris, I hope you enjoyed my thoughts and trifles :) If you missed any coverage or just want some fashion week highlights, click HERE for all my runway reviews! 
xx
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PFW | FW13 part V

 DION LEE

Lee has been one of my favorite designers to watch ever since Tommy Tom profiled one of his incredible collections at Australia fashion week a while ago. With a penchant for sharp, angular constructions and insanely cool graphic prints (note--those atmosphere storm pics!), Lee still manages to bring something fresh and eye-catching to the table each season. Something about the cut of his pieces is just so refreshing and aesthetically pleasing. 

 GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

I will admit that I found little to no cohesion throughout this collection, but that I loved some of the looks individually. The array of grecian drapery and furry patch looks in muted pastels caught my attention, but it was the vibrant vermillion look that kept me clicking. A floral pantsuit and intricately beaded neckline don't hurt either. 

 CHLOE

I was intrigued by the effortless mood that Keller created in this fall collection (almost had a spring-y feel to it!). From the airy swiss-dots in paneled blouses and tutu-skirts to the amazing chain-link fence dress (still swooning), the pieces spoke to the Chloe heritage but maintained an air of updated modernity. 

 PACO RABANNE

I think we all know Paco Rabanne for his chain-mail dresses. It was great seeing a fresh reinvention of such a unique piece in different ways, seeing that it became a collared shirtdress and jumpsuit (or so I see?). Also, that intricately pleated silver skirt is everything. 

STELLA MCCARTNEY I need to get the major shoe vibes out of the way before I speak about the collection. Anything platform-tread-sole captures my attention like nothing else.  As for McCartney's collection, I enjoyed the effortless draping and comfortable aura to the well-tailored pieces. The superimposing of aspects like tartan and pinstripes onto exaggerated silhouettes all in the spirit of menswear was what drew me in. Also, you all probably know by now that rounded sleeves and bulky volume are my thing. 
images via style.com
xx INSTAGRAM | BLOGLOVIN' | FACEBOOK

PFW | FW13 part IV

 CELINE

Paris is such a breath of fresh air during fashion month because we are treated to a generous deal of clean and almost purified elegance. Philo's FW13 collection was no exception, with incredibly well-cut circle skirt hems in a washed palette of beige-pink and the basic yet sophisticated silhouettes. The ingenious illusion of a tied coat over the bodice of the fifth look was amazing, as was the array of plaids and tartans on tailored separates. Can we talk about the boxy cropped tee in the fourth look?! Also, major accessory love with the clutches and chokers.
VIKTOR & ROLF I feel like I've been missing out on Viktor & Rolf's whimsy for a while, until I clicked through this collection. Although mostly devoid of color, the unexpected details throughout kept me engaged. There was a air of transformation in each of the pieces with the clean-cut blouses morphing into cascading ruffles in unexpected places and giving off a sense of a beautiful yet seemingly chaotic deconstruction. Who knew black and white could be so interesting?

TSUMORI CHISATO

Leave it to the Japanese creatives in Paris to excel in the area of volume. Rounded silhouettes fluctuated  elegantly between body-hugging and exaggerating in a single garment, exuding an emboldened drama all in an incredible palette of fire engine red, cobalt, and icy blues. The range of size in the graphic details (those huge stripes and dots to the smaller patterns) was also very interesting. 

YOHJI YAMAMOTO

I admire Yamamoto for his dexterity with black. However, it was a pleasant surprise to see some real colors in the collection. First, the intensely engineered construction of the 3-D pyramidal structures all over that black dress is mind-boggling (wearing it would be comparable to wearing a piece of art!) Also, the ruching/minute pleating and sheer complexity of the interwoven construction of the last blue and rust dress is something to appreciate. 

NEIL BARRETT Can we get a woop woop for wearability? I would wear each of the pieces pictured above in a heartbeat. I love the simple colorblocking with the chevron and zigzag details as well as the "sweatshirt" pullover with a fitted bottom. Sporty-chic defines it well (although I find that term tacky haha)-baseball caps and leather windbreakers: yes. 
images via style.com
xx

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PFW | FW13 part III

CHRISTIAN DIOR

It seems like there's a perpetual spring in the air at Christian Dior. Raf Simons meshed floral motifs in dainty pastels and loud brights while maintaining a seasonal balance with beautiful juxtapositions of black and white throughout. We all know Simons for his exquisite tailoring at Jil Sander, which I equally appreciate at Dior. The same incredible volume and construction of the garments are done in the femininity-embracing history of Christian Dior. (The fabric of the second skirt--DISCUSS)

ACNE STUDIOS

I love a well-done deconstructed garment. At Acne, Johansson played with hard and soft, contrasting boxy, linear pieces with the fluidity of his slit skirts and dresses. Add in some textural details on the surface and some metallic patches and we have a stunning collection!

HUSSEIN CHALAYAN

Chalayan is what I deem the master engineer in the fashion industry. With an eye for technology that seems to be ahead of our time, Chalayan always creates astonishingly confounding pieces in his shows. There were many a transforming dress here, with models walking normally and then at once tugging at the dress to transform in the face of an awe-stricken audience (have you seen the GIFs floating around tumblr? incredible). Aside from the incredible evolution of the garment in a matter of seconds, the pieces still exude his elegant and sophisticated yet futuristic aesthetic. The brushed graphic is my favorite. 

HAIDER ACKERMANN

A pantsuit slash tailored blazer or trousers seems to always be succesful when done by Ackermann. I enjoyed the dark, woodsy palette of charcoals, black, and muddy earth tones. A generous amount of layering everywhere in sight, this collection screamed an appropriate "WEAR ME IN THE FALL" to me. I just love the effortless draping of this pieces and how they fall on the human form.

COMME DES GARCONS

REI. REI. REI. Forever Rei. This collection was a spectacular sight from beginning to end (especially the end), starting with an abundance of note-pad swatches (how I saw...how did you see it?) exploded onto your normal skirtsuit. The palette soon evolved beyond reserved grayscale and suddenly bloomed into technicolor tribal prints in seeming optical illusions and a tropical garden. All this with the fantastical silhouettes that are a Kawakubo signature makes me feel lucky that we have geniuses like her. 

images via style.com

xx

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PFW | FW13 Part II

 CARVEN

Excellently tailored outerwear pieces are truly Henry's strong point. From cotton candy pinks and powder blues to light camels, the layered looks had me wanting a head-to-toe monochrome look myself. I was very pleased with this collection, albeit confused by the zebra-esque motif on a few of the pieces. Give me flouting lapels and oversized volume or give me fashion death.

BALENCIAGA

The man of the hour pulled it off! Did you know that Alexander Wang only began working on this debut collection for the iconic Parisian fashion house at the BEGINNING OF LAST MONTH ?  The thought of this being pulled together in a matter of weeks (despite an inconceivable amount of thought and planning, naturally) is truly astonishing.
The palette of black, white, and grays was expected for safety, but he rather succesfully executed very well-cut pieces that meshed his own skills with historic Balenciaga silhouettes and volumes. Also, let's discuss the amazing crackling and marbling on the gorgeous dipped hem coats and pullovers. Who's ready for his next collection?

 BALMAIN

Rousteing took us back to the '80s, and at first I did not appreciate it. Fortunately, aside from the severity of the power shoulders and attention to volume, I enjoyed the spectacular jewel tones and splendor of the gem/jewel-like effect of the metallic garments. I was able to appreciate the pieces most when considering them separate from the rest of the look; I would definitely wear the blue mini on Liu Wen. 

 LANVIN

HELP! HOT! COOL! YOU! LOVE! The loudness of the cheeky neckwear pieces were mollified by their pairings with Elbaz' signature Lanvin cuts. The organic floral details (love the 3-D detailing!) and the texture of the frocks all throughout had me in love. It was a new tale of romance for the house of Lanvin.

UNDERCOVER

Kitsch and dare I say weirdness were two of the factors that drew me to this collection. First, the intricate and gilded masquerade masks in bunny and feline forms perfectly matched the youthful proportions and details throughout the collection--the cropped cardigan with an animal graphic, the cut-paper construction of that fantastic white skirt. I also thought the military jacket with the ribcage detail was really clever. The transformation of a button up into a multi-layered and swan-like white frock in the fourth look kept my interest as the collection progressed towards bunched and scrunched up dresses in exaggerated silhouettes. 
images via style.com
xx
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PFW | FW13 Part I

 CEDRIC CHARLIER

Charlier did embellishments right this season, with sprigs of floral details and whispery veils of beading sprayed over piece after piece. These airy overlays were incorporated into beautiful textured frocks and in the dainty sheer patches on the last two blouses. Charlier pulled off a very delicate yet grounded collection with a great balance between dainty creams and strong blacks.

GARETH PUGH

A bare-bones wintry austerity was present in Pugh's latest collection, where straight lines and angular volume reigned supreme. The origami-like folds of the necklines and skirt details paired with the all-around impeccable construction of the garments was fantastic, while we were given a surprise by the sparsest notion of a graphic detail in the frail, naked branches that decorated the hems of some pieces.

 GUY LAROCHE

The combination of leather and any furry texture is hard to pull off, but this collection did it well. This could partially be attributed to the fact that there were such few looks that had both elements, but also because they were just very well done. If you read my posts you will also know that I have an affinity for all things motorcycle so the fuschia vest of the second look falls under that category. That vibrant head-to-knee purple also caught my attention, as did the great navy cape of the last look.

MUGLER

Nicola Formichetti continues to stun me with the things he produces for the house of Mugler season after season. Although we did see some simpler garments with rather minimalistic undertones, he still kept those futuristic details and silhouettes that I've come to associate him with at Mugler. The splash of a furry/hairy patch of orange across a muted gray top (with ends trailing behind), the paper-like bonnet, and the 3-D cutout motifs in the fourth and fifth looks-so cool. 

CHRISTOPHER LEMAIRE Lemaire's fall collection was a genuine reflection of Parisian sensibility and Paris' eye for the simple yet chic. Tailored blazers and trousers, pullovers, and blouses in elegantly loose proportions make me want to simplify my wardrobe so badly. I'll take a pair of black pants and that oversized sweater, please. 
images via style.com
xx
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