MENSWEAR SS14 | Paris Round-up

I think it's safe to say that Paris is blessed with the best menswear lineup. So as I dragged looks upon looks onto my desktop in hope of blogging them and having two separate posts of a total of 10 PFW favorites, it occurred to me that my timing would be a little off. I try to be punctual with my runway posts because they are such time-based things and I don't want you guys to be getting old (/stale/irrelevant) news. Therefore, I took it upon myself to exercise my judgment and editing skills--although, try as I might, refining my top favorites was extremely difficult. But here they are, a total of 6 of my favorite collections from Paris menswear.

 HAIDER ACKERMANN

The response to Ackermann's womenswear (literally, check the most recent seasons, to die for) speaks volumes about the odd universality of his aesthetic and his catering to style spectators who lust for his pieces. The same goes for his menswear--we continue to get that impeccable tailoring, signature loose fits, and rich palette in his ss14 pieces. I'm really digging the juxtaposition of the different textures as well as the dark and light hues. Give me the entire look on Cole Mohr and Paul Boche's pants, please.

 KRIS VAN ASSCHE

If you've been reading my mini reviews for the last month or so, you'll probably see the common denominator of my love for clean cuts. Especially when paired with boxy sleeves and done in solid hues of darks, brights, and whites, sharply tailored pieces make me ache for a no-fuss man's wardrobe stocked full of KvA. I love the highlight of the zipper details throughout, as well as the color choice--really loving the forest green and cerise (I just looked up this color, it's stunning). 

3.1 PHILLIP LIM If you want to talk about wearability, let's discuss 3.1 Phillip Lim. From the glimmering patched moto vest to the floral pullover, this collection screamed everything I wanted for spring. The plastic buckle detailing and otherwise minimal hardware kept me focused on the amazing garments. The iridescent beetle sheen of that bomber jacket and those serape-esque pants are killing me. 

DIOR HOMME Wow, Kris van Assche can do no wrong. The minimal palette of plum/aubergine, blue hues, and black was perfect for me. Although I was a bit bored at times, different details caught my eye as I clicked through the collection. I clearly saw Mondrian references (I'm sure Cathy Horyn probably saw something else) and they definitely solidified my love for this collection. Also, can we talk about the insane venue and runway/set? (pictures)

LANVIN Man shorts are such a thing. Although this was a man-shorts-a-plenty collection, I zoned in on the amazing outerwear pieces. Oversized overcoats and loosely cut trousers were paired with ultracool details like sleek fanny packs (yeah, I know) and sleek skinny ties. The murse in the fourth look is also kind of amazing. Overall, a very sophisticated and modern collection for the contemporary menswear man. Claps for Alber!!!

JUUN J
When I reblogged the "jersey" pullover in the second look on tumblr, it didn't occur to me that it was from the most recent collection by one of my favorite Korean designers. The marbled look and the 3-D surface print are everyone's favorite LPD tees to the next level. Voluminous shirts of exaggerated oxfords and trumpet sleeves were a comical yet fitting contrast to the short shorts on the models.  That navy coat with the collar and hood will probably haunt me in my dreams--along with that beautifully ghostly baby Kristin McMenamy with twig antlers.  images via style.com & thefashionisto.com THIS CONCLUDES my menswear coverage for the Spring Summer 2014 season, hope you enjoyed!  Click "RUNWAY" on the sidebar to see the rest of my reviews. xx INSTAGRAM | BLOGLOVIN' | FACEBOOK

PFW | FW13 part III

CHRISTIAN DIOR

It seems like there's a perpetual spring in the air at Christian Dior. Raf Simons meshed floral motifs in dainty pastels and loud brights while maintaining a seasonal balance with beautiful juxtapositions of black and white throughout. We all know Simons for his exquisite tailoring at Jil Sander, which I equally appreciate at Dior. The same incredible volume and construction of the garments are done in the femininity-embracing history of Christian Dior. (The fabric of the second skirt--DISCUSS)

ACNE STUDIOS

I love a well-done deconstructed garment. At Acne, Johansson played with hard and soft, contrasting boxy, linear pieces with the fluidity of his slit skirts and dresses. Add in some textural details on the surface and some metallic patches and we have a stunning collection!

HUSSEIN CHALAYAN

Chalayan is what I deem the master engineer in the fashion industry. With an eye for technology that seems to be ahead of our time, Chalayan always creates astonishingly confounding pieces in his shows. There were many a transforming dress here, with models walking normally and then at once tugging at the dress to transform in the face of an awe-stricken audience (have you seen the GIFs floating around tumblr? incredible). Aside from the incredible evolution of the garment in a matter of seconds, the pieces still exude his elegant and sophisticated yet futuristic aesthetic. The brushed graphic is my favorite. 

HAIDER ACKERMANN

A pantsuit slash tailored blazer or trousers seems to always be succesful when done by Ackermann. I enjoyed the dark, woodsy palette of charcoals, black, and muddy earth tones. A generous amount of layering everywhere in sight, this collection screamed an appropriate "WEAR ME IN THE FALL" to me. I just love the effortless draping of this pieces and how they fall on the human form.

COMME DES GARCONS

REI. REI. REI. Forever Rei. This collection was a spectacular sight from beginning to end (especially the end), starting with an abundance of note-pad swatches (how I saw...how did you see it?) exploded onto your normal skirtsuit. The palette soon evolved beyond reserved grayscale and suddenly bloomed into technicolor tribal prints in seeming optical illusions and a tropical garden. All this with the fantastical silhouettes that are a Kawakubo signature makes me feel lucky that we have geniuses like her. 

images via style.com

xx

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