As I sit warmly inside typing this paragraph, I glance outside my window where it is (and has been for the last 12 hours) vehemently snowing nonstop. The oversized, slouchy, and layered vibe of this collection from Acne is just what I need to be wearing right now! From the cozy looking funnel necks and the glam silky anoraks down to those furry slippers, the pieces are essentials with fun exaggeration.
As a menswear designer on everyone's radar, Juun J. has done a fantastic job executing beautifully tailored and interestingly voluminous pieces since I first encountered his work-this time in the form of an absolutely stunning 57 looks in a handsome palette of black, grays, navies, and deep forest greens. Everything from the ponyhair bomber (which....okay someone get that for me, stat) to the moto jacket with the oversized lapel exuded LUXE. Who knew oversized could look so good?
3.1 PHILLIP LIM
A skillful mix of patterns, textures, and fabrics was at play in this collection for FW14. My favorite pairing is the brilliantly blown up windowpane check trousers (with those ankle cuffs, or are those the hem of the pants? anyways...amazing) with the blued out floral button up. A variety of checks, florals, and wood grain (is that what I sense in that first spectacular shirt? Reminds me of Céline) surprisingly make for a great combination. Another pleasantly wearable and clear collection from Lim.
Florals for fall and a generous lesson in layering came from Yamamoto's fabulous men's collection. I was immediately enamored by that first coat bedecked with flowers and the consequent layered looks drew me in. In short, the pieces were interesting and I thought it was a very nicely styled show.
Disclaimer: I have not liked Riccardo Tisci's work at Givenchy for a long time. I was verging on disliking this one but it was different from his last few so I took a chance to reexamine and found myself liking it more and more. In a different approach to "street" fashion, Tisci took on the evident theme of basketball and its various components to create a rather interesting look. I love how the motif of the ball itself is translated into various pieces, from the tee under the netted shirt (I think it's a briliant look...like a real basketball) to the primary-colored court markings in the last look. The paint smudged tailored black suit is a nice riff too.
Seeing this, I hope Tisci goes above and beyond with his next collections.
images via style.com & hero-magazine.com
This concludes my three part round-up series on the menswear collections for Fall/Winter 2014! Hope you enjoyed my perspective and mini reviews (click for London and Milan)