FASHION MONTH ROUND-UP

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ALEXANDER WANG This season, Wang was truly an interesting balance in the color and texture varieties. The styling was on point (I love the high necked layering) as were the accessories (who doesn't want a ubiquitous Wang purse?). If I were to get a pair of calf/thigh high boots, those would be the only ones I'd "yes." Also, gonna cry at the insanely cool hem of that last white shirtdress. 

DION LEE It's been many seasons since I first followed Lee's work and I can say with confidence that I'm very happy with his aesthetic growth and progression. This season, a monochrome palette was kept interesting with clean-cut asymmetrical details, enviable layering techniques, and of course a few amazing dresses that I'd die to have. 
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J.W. ANDERSON Just when I had the slightest notion that I would be a little bored by J.W. Anderson, this collection pops up and leaves me stunned. Languid yet structural, the dresses were a perfect mix of juxtapositions.  I aboslutely adore the bustier detailing on a few of the pieces. 

ISSA Taking after Celine last season, Issa was arts-and-crafts-y in the most refined manner. An embellishment in the form of a goofy face and zig-zag tops were adorable details while the larger color blocks were artfully pieced like a Matisse. Being done on clean silhouettes in nice proportions, this collection remained elegant and tasteful. 
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MARNI

I think it goes without saying that there our expectations are low going into Milan. Yet, in the most recent seasons, Marni has been thoroughly impressing me. The resurgence of the great boldness that Marni carries so well was displayed throughout this collection, ranging from the multicolor coat with broad brushstroke-like colors to the fur and feathered dresses in the last few looks. It was over the top in all the right ways--without the garishness of everything else in Milan. 

ICEBERG

Another exception to the Milanese rule, Iceberg presented a superb mish-mash of different design details. The collection looks fit for a neo-galactic fashion week attendee, with its foil textures, constructed silhouettes, and palette of cool neutrals with vivid brights. 

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JACQUEMUS

In a quick ascension to the top of the fashion scene as of late, JACQUEMUS has stolen the spotlight once again with his FW14 collection, a delightfully composed array of puffy and cushy looking pieces that I want to touch so badly. I love that the simplicity of the pieces does not conjure boredom but rather garners more interest and curiosity (at least for me!). I am just in love with the variety of silhouettes he puts out on the runway, they are too fantastic. 

CÉLINE

I will start off by saying that this collection was not my favorite when I first saw it, but it grew on me (and continues to do so...waiting for that moment of Céline explosion that inevitably occurs every season). The mix of ribbed knits with picnic-basket gingham is an unexpected but intriguing combination; meanwhile, the luxe pairing of fur and jewels was fresh due to the twist--that massive cluster necklace and orange fur are paired nicely. Once again, footwear and handbags were on point--more things to add to my "unattainable wants" list.

images via style.com

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MENSWEAR FW14 | London Round-Up

 TOPMAN

I think I have a funny way of judging if I like a collection or not during menswear--the questions I hold are "would I myself like to wear this and do I like it on the guy on the runway?" In Topman's case, the answer was a definite yes. With everyone throwing "menswear inspired womenswear" around these days, it's a no brainer that these silhouettes are going to show up (and have already shown up, with successful feedback) in womenswear on the street and for retailers. Ever since Guillaume Henry gave us those ubiquitous oversized pastel coats, saccharine hued outerwear has exploded, and I'm still here for it--I do appreciate that the blue coat in the collection is slightly muted, however. Other details I'm obsessing over here: crackled paint details, a coated cableknit (last seen at Phillip Lim last season, I immediately became obsessed), and of course oversized tailoring.

RICHARD NICOLL

Who doesn't love classic tailored silhouettes with a twist? Nicoll presented a mix of streetwear and rather traditional menswear pieces like pleated trousers as well as almost comically detailed garments (note: cute frilly details on dress shirts, metallic florals). At this point, I think I've seen enough bermudas to want some myself--in that gorgeous brocadey/jacquardy blue in the middle. I'm also digging the simple graphic pullovers, with cool type rearranged and spelling words like "brutal" and "discreet" (definitely want one of those!)

J.W. ANDERSON

Androgyny was taken to another level of "wow" in Anderson's latest fall looks.What appeared like an extended dickie/sleeveless turtleneck with bold lines made for fantastic ensembles while Anderson's signature asymmetry and deconstruction kept the eye moving from head to toe as the collection progressed. An injection of rich colors gave the last looks a stronger graphic impact, from the shiny shirt and pant sets to the cool knits and wraparound "things" (I seriously don't know what to categorize those as... someone help me?) All in all, another stunning collection from Anderson.

MAN / CRAIG GREEN

I was pleasantly surprised to see that Green did not take the installation art path for his most recent collection (as he done with the last two, see here and here). Though I appreciate his sculptural aesthetic in those collections, they were definitely unwearable and at times too much to handle. This time, that same structured approach simmered down to an elegant minimalism, with a dark palette, boxy layers, and the most fantastic leather accessories. There was almost a monk-like restraint to the pieces, which can probably be attributed to the robe silhouettes throughout. I would wear the coats in a heartbeat!

KAY KWOK Ever since Juun J came out with those ridiculously cool digital print sweatshirts and Xander Zhou superimposed social media screenshots onto fantastic coats, I've been on the lookout for rad printed items. Kay Kwok was a feast for the eyes, almost equivalent to the intricacy of Mary Katrantzou; brushed prints gave off wintery vibes and then the collection seemed to veer into the extraterrestrial, with the alien prints, shiny headgear, and clear collars. One of my favorite aspects of this collection was also the hair and makeup. The sporadic spots of glitter on the models and the sleek middle parts complemented the collection so beautifully. 
Hope you enjoyed my short coverage of LC:M! Today was the start of Milan/Pitti Uomo, and I of course will be doing a Milan roundup.  Keep posted!
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