MENSWEAR SS14 | Milan Round-up

 JIL SANDER

Jil Sander's second season back at Jil Sander (ha) is looking good at the moment. Clean cut layers of snow whites with hints and accents of bright oranges and corals kept my eyes on the lookout for other fine details. I can't get enough of the boxy collared shirts and that amazing patent white jacket. Right now, I have been inspired with a need for a pair of crisp, single front pleat trousers in some bright warm hue. 

 LES HOMMES
Leather, leather, leather. The leather tees were what initially drew me in as I admired the first colorblocked look and the consequent leather accents (the silk and leather paneling on those two suits too!!). My last two favorite looks consisted of revamped bomber jackets with sheen, leather sleeves, and cool prints.

GUCCI Florals for spring? Groundbreaking. But I loved how Gianni pulled it off for menswear in a non-tacky or too tryhard way. Mixed with a cool array of futuristic looking utilitarian pieces with clean lines, the collection refrained from an overpowering of the floral motif. That buttery looking leather camel coat is speaking to me right now.  

Z ZEGNA If Ermenegildo Zegna was good, then Z Zegna was better. Although a few outerwear pieces at EZ were much more sophisticated and lust-worthy than some of the ones here, the ZZ collection as a whole was very appealing and I would definitely wear some of those pieces. The palette transitioned from dark blacks and blues (love that teal in the moto jacket, 2nd look) to muted pastels of peach, beige, and baby blue. Last mention - that all white summer shorts, shirt, jacket look is soooo good (yes, 5 o's necessary). 

MARC JACOBS I think I have a weird thing for pastel suits done right; that ice blue and salmon pairing is seriously so amazing. A few grey looks were also superb, but what I love most is that last plaid shirt, it's a need. 
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MFW | FW13 Part I

GABRIELE COLANGELO

I can't resist a collection of delicate beiges and nudes amongst a sea of black and dark glamour driven fall collections during Milan (see: Gucci). Slinky silk trousers contrasted with the elegantly cut outerwear really nicely. I really enjoyed the shaggy rug-like texture and look of the second woven top in a mixture of creams. Also, those snakeskin cap/pointy-toed ankle boots--perfection. 

BLUMARINE

What an absolutely pleasant surprise. I was previously discussing with a friend how Blumarine was not really something we paid attention to anymore, but this collection recaptured my interest! The collection seemed to be injected with a rather high volume of springy motifs and themes with the frothy pastels, floral, and whatnot, but it was executed quite well. The draped skirt silhouette of look 3 and 6 was very interesting, as was the sheen of the striped floral of look 4. Again, the palette of washed out beiges, pinks, and blues freshened up the darkness that is characteristic of most fall collections (especially in Milan, IMO). 

GUCCI

I felt like Frida Gianni was perhaps toying with too many ideas in this collection, but there were some standout pieces that I chose to post above. We saw the collection take from round-shouldered boxy coats with floral embroidery, then enter into trouser territory, and finally transform into some dark, glittering bird of paradise. My favorite looks were the ones that had voices of their own--the strong shouldered and hip-accentuating brocade/jacquard top and trousers, the powder blue coat with extra-large lapels, and the feathery dress wrought with embellishment. I can imagine that last number swishing down the reflective runway, and I didn't even watch the livestream-HA. 

 SPORTMAX

Voluminous skirts have been on my mind lately (second to those cool slit skirts). Fantastic circle cuts paired with perfectly constructed outerwear tops brought this collection to a whole new level. A fully bejeweled blouse cut like a tee, the metallic paper bag clutches, the socks and heels--all great details that maximized the appeal of this collection. 

MAXMARA

I always know that MaxMara will carry out a great collection of well-tailored basics in beautiful array of different hues. Signature neutrals like beige and camel were darkened a shade, with a caramel tone in the coats and bronzed silks. An all mustard ensemble made me smile at how well they executed a monochrome look (I'd look like a mustard packet, tbh). The midnight navy sheen of that 4th look almost oozing out like liquid mercury from underneath that jet coat was simply phenomenal. 

images via style.com

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PRE-FALL '13 Loves II

CHLOE Ever since Claire took over Chloe, she has consistently delivered beautifully tailored pieces that speak of the simple but always chic French style. The crisp pleats and sharply cut pants and coats are perfect when paired with more effeminate features like eyelet lace and delicate collars.

MONIQUE LHUILLIER I am always intrigued by how Lhuillier is able to translate her skill of gorgeous draping and dressmaking into ready-to-wear pieces. You can see those skills in the cuts of her blouses and skirts. I also love the very obvious pebbled leather texture in the second coat and that reptilian texture on that pullover. Ultimately, I am most in awe by her ethereal gowns (those last two just get me)--especially with the last piece, I feel like Lhuillier is the only one who can pull off a mix of chiffon, lace, and silk in  a single dress. 

GUCCI I never thought that I would enjoy plaid and oversized belt buckles this much, since I'm pretty sure that combination existed sometime in my fashion faux-pas ridden childhood. I admire the styling in this collection; the '40s waves are perfect with both the fitted, tailored looks as well as the voluminous features. 

HONOR With a cast of sylph-like models, this collection conveyed a very feminine fairy-like quality to me. I loved everything from the organic floral prints to the petal-like tailoring in the separates. 

CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION Looking through the Calvin Klein Collection is always a breath of fresh air in between some of the rather unconventional pre-fall collections. I am, and will forever be, a fan of strong, structured silhouettes and a minimal color palette.

MISSONI I love how the signature knits are flawlessly incorporated with other staple pieces such as a fur-collared coat or leather trousers. I found the color transition very interesting yet cohesive; it began with a monochrome gray scale, then worked towards rusty fall hues contrasted with an electric blue, and slowly mixed in jet black.  By the way, did you know that the private plane of the Missonis (with them in it! yikes!) has been reported missing? More HERE
images via style.com
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