Showing posts with label ss14. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ss14. Show all posts

10.03.2013

SS14 | Paris Round-Up

CÉLINE

...And Philo's phenomenal reign CONTINUES! This collection was magnificent and really well executed--although this is to say only after I clicked through the pieces twice. The generally minimal color story and almost clinical cleanliness to Philo's work was instead overrun with splashes of color and bold, in your face prints this season. Curvilinear strokes complemented the angular cuts of the tops while a plethora of textural details from fringe and delicate pleats to metal chokers kept the audience engaged from start to finish. This was definitely not the same Céline from past seasons, but I LOVE IT!
CHRISTOPHER LEMAIRE

Comfort and sophistication all rolled into one, Christopher Lemaire's newest collection had me head over heels for oversized pieces in neutral tones. The pajama-esque feel to the button ups and baggy trousers is just so appealing, especially for those mornings when you don't want to get out of bed (#fashionstudentlife). I'm currently loving the knee-length short/bermuda silhouette as well as long tunics/skirts paired over pants, they just both exude runway coolness. 
KENZO

After seeing the Opening Ceremony show during NYFW, I was already looking forward to what would be presented at Kenzo for PFW. The "dripping" look of the hems of the tops drew me in right from the start--paired with the colorblocked trousers, they were giving me such "cool girl" vibes (you could totally see that on any well-dressed downtown girl in SoHo/Meatpacking). Then the palette moved transitioned into vivid blue tones, with that lovely sketch-like texture on the fourth dress and the following looks. Last but not least, those telephone cord necklaces were AMAZING (#lookstotry). 

HAIDER ACKERMANN

If I'm asked who my favorite designer is atm, I usually respond with Haider Ackermann. Elegance and ease paired together always spark fireworks whenever done by Ackermann. I really love the heavy menswear influence in his pieces, although he manages to still keep sex appeal in various ways, from plunging necklines to high hemlines. As always, luxe metallics and on point layering made it one of the ace collections of Paris Fashion Week. I'm looking forward to menswear FW14 so much. 
CHRISTIAN DIOR

Raf Simons welcome spring/summer like no other fashion house in Paris. Full on garbed in dazzling fresh floral fixtures, the venue foreshadowed what was to come inside on the runway. Many elements were reflected in the waterfall of flowers above, from the beautiful cascading joaillarie on the necks and necklines of the garments to the diagonal draping of the skirts and general asymmetricality of the pieces.  The last twenty or so looks amused me, with an army of models clad in metallic dresses and tailored pantsuits storming the runway. My favorite pieces have to be the jewel encrusted bustier and the white vest in the third look. Bravo to another stunning and thorough collection by Mr. Simons!

STELLA MCCARTNEY

 McCartney's SS14 collection embodied comfort, wearability, and delicate beauty all at once. From the languid trapezing dresses in the first few looks (that rust is killing me, I actually tried on a last size  rust dress today but I was sad to find it had a hole in it) to the absolutely gorgeous barely-there lace frocks towards the end, the collection was a start-to-finish spring triumph. The way the lace overlay was done in the bodices captured my attention all the way to the end (there was also one bright red number that was perfect). A nice, airy balance to her strong and structured outerwear for FW13, McCartney proves herself a versatile designer once again. 

images via style.com

And that concludes my fashion week/month posts! 
Hope you guys enjoyed my coverage for SS14.

xx

9.25.2013

SS14 | Milan Round-up

PRADA
When Prada showed, everyone freaked. My Facebook feed was "ALL HAIL MIUCCIA" and "THANK GOD FOR PRADA" and "EVERYONE GO HOME, PRADA KILLED IT"--no joke. 
I will admit at first that I didn't see the appeal in it, but as I clicked through the collection for the second time, it truly grew on me. Maybe one gem short of sensory overload, the collection was a feast for the eyes, with colors and textures head to toe. Athletic influences infused with whimsical yet sophisticated youthfulness is how I would describe the collection. I cannot get over the bejeweled bra tops and encrusted dresses as well as the cool face motifs on some of the coats. Vibrancy and in-your-face embellishment is great for spring. 
COSTUME NATIONAL
Are we getting sick of minimalism yet? If it's even possible for me to get sick of black and white done in über clean cuts, then I guess I sort of am. However, Costume National kept me clicking picture after picture, with details here and there catching my eye. It was interesting to see the theme of asymmetricality run from garment to garment, taking on the form of an immensely low cut bodice with 1.5 lapels to that citron one-sleeved blazer. The accessories also looked perfectly clean and structured--I would love to own that multi-pocketed white bag with the navy strap in look trés. 
MARNI
I feel like I haven't really fell in LOVE with Marni collections as much as I did when I first started following the runway scene a few years ago. This SS14 collection truly captured my attention, though, for a variety of reasons. The label's impeccable taste in textiles/prints was evident in the stunning linear floral print of the second ensemble. I love the juxtaposition - the fluidity and organic aspects of the pieces interposed with straight belts and a few boxy cuts. The floral appliques were hands down my favorite part, adding gorgeous texture, sheen, and wow factor to a simple track jacket and pencil skirt among other pieces. 
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
I am increasingly pleased with the direction Salvatore Ferragamo has been going in womenswear as of late. An extremely luxurious take on utilitarian outerwear, the trench was one of the first looks, redone in a fresh white with silver hardware with numerous jackets in creamy beige tones keeping collection ever-evolving from start to finish. The construction of the pleated skirts with the "caping" (can you call it that? caping?) detail diagonally over the front with the buckle is honestly so amazing. I would love to get my hands on a skirt like that. The collection ended with two deep navy looks, and that last dress grabbed my attention--though subtle and rather simple, it flowed so elegantly. 
ICEBERG
Two words - futuristic kawaii. I'm very much into the colored and patterned paneling on those amazing jackets/pullovers, which somehow give me an astronaut-y vibe. I especially love the fourth look, with the Japanese appliqued onto the opaque body of the pullover and paired with the holographic strip skirt... too good! Overall, it was a very fresh and youthful collection that I would totally wear.
GIANFRANCO FERRE
What a great collection to finish off Milan. Essentially the antithesis of all over-the-top pageantry (think Dolce & Gabbana, Moschino) that is signature to MFW, Gianfranco Ferre was a clean cut and pleasant deviation. Sharp lines were juxtaposed with several fluid silhouettes and waterfall constructions while obi style belts cinched the paperlike waists, in the spirit of the origami look and Japanese aura to the collection (which I personally perceived). Bravo!!!
images via style.com

Hope you enjoyed my Milan fashion week round-up!
Paris started yesterday, so stay tuned for my favorites from #PFW!
xx
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9.18.2013

SS14 | London Round-up

EUDON CHOI
I'm so happy that one of the opening collections for LFW was Eudon Choi. The beautiful garments maintained the clean lines and minimalism from New York but had an extra "something" to them with the sporadic appearance of delicate florals and other prints. Florals and stripes are done quite often (think your local Forever 21 or even some SS13 stuff) but it was impeccably executed in the top and matching skirt. My absolute favorite ensemble of the collection, though, had to be the navy robe and pajama-esque trousers--if only I could roll out of bed and look that chic in the morning. 
PETER PILOTTO
I think it goes without saying that I always look forward to Pilotto's collections when fashion week comes around. His keen ability to do prints in new and innovative ways season after season is truly admirable, and he is one of the few "prints-based" designers that I love unconditionally. This season, we were presented with a gorgeous palette of cool pastels on boxy cut tops juxtaposed with creased skirts. The origami like folds on the short sleeved blouses, cropped jackets, and folded skirts look so stunning with the ebbing colors and prints of the other pieces--in all it reminds me so much of the origami paper I used as a child when folding little cranes and such. Well done, again!
ERDEM
Signature Erdem florals were taken to a new level for Moralioglu's SS14 collection as a ballad in black, white, and gray along with hints of yellow and metallic sheen. Sheer paneling combined with florals and lace were refreshingly modern in the silhouettes--I am obsessed with the sheer layered skirt of the first look and the double breastpocketed jacket in the third. Compared to vibrancy of his last collections, I love the overall monochromaticity of these elegant looks, it really ups the luxe feel of the pieces. 
CHRISTOPHER KANE
Kane really dissected the floral trend for this collection, and by dissected I mean a botanical examination of flora. His rather scientific approach could be seen in the c-section graphics and labeling of various organs and I personally saw a clinical, lab-like quality in a few of the paneled dresses with the sharp edges and metal fixtures. What I love about this collection is how he took such a basic and essential spring trend ("florals for spring? groundbreaking.") and extended his aesthetic into so many different realms with the essence and motif of the flower. From the petal cutouts to the laser-cut c-sections to the gemstone detailing in lieu of straps, Kane really did an applause-worthy job in reinventing the wheel (florals) for SS14. 
PREEN
Another reinterpretation of florals for spring, Bregazzi's collection was a stunning balance of geometrical solid colored constructions and digitally rendered flowers. Subtle details like tiny perforations/cutouts along the seams and silver hardware on the shoulders and skirts of some pieces showed craftsmanship without adding heavily to the already impactful prints. I think my favorite part of the collection was how the floral quilt-like digital prints mirrored and complemented the angularity of Bregazzi's clean cuts. 
J.W. ANDERSON
Ah, the most anticipated show of LFW and the talk of the town (ok, just my circle of friends). I am happy and relieved to see that it wasn't too resemblant to his last few collections, as I was beginning to feel a monotony within them. This season, Anderson played with mixing new textures and asymmetrical details. I loved the use of the singular fringe trim across the shoulders and on the skirt of the third look, as well as the shrunken sweater as a "backless top" in the fifth look. The marshmallow-esque top (don't lie, you were thinking it too) with the yellow skirt was also a fantastic ensemble. In all, it was very springy but subtly and J.W.Anderson-ly so. 
images via style.com

Hope you enjoyed my LFW roundup! 
Today marked the beginning of Milan so keep an eye out for those too!

xx
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9.15.2013

SS14 | New York Round-up

DION LEE
I think I always begin my Dion Lee reviews with something along the lines of "season to season" or "consistently," because that's just it--for the duration of time that I've followed his work, Lee has executed stunning and brilliantly constructed garments without fail. His SS14 collection, newly shown in New York, did the same, giving an injection of Australian cool to the minimalism we've been seeing on the runways. While the monochrome looks are to die for, the elegantly draped dresses really caught my eye with their stunning "looping" details on the bodices. The play on texture and print was also very refreshing after all the black and white at NYFW.

BRANDON SUN
Spring doesn't often equate to layers but in this collection, it was pulled off beautifully and weather-appropriately. The clean cut pieces joined downtown edge with UES class in a gorgeous grayscale palette injected with muted pastels. I love the geometric detailing throughout the garments, from the ruched/pleated leather to the paneling on the gray skirt. 
3.1 PHILLIP LIM
Sure to be the future of subject blogger/street style phenomena, Lim's SS14 collection was made for the streets but nonetheless extremely sophisticated. The motifs on the garments reminded me of concentric circles in wood and slices of agate. Many of the pieces were organic and tied back to those motifs, with the agate print between the solid bodice and dissipating into the sheer hem. The texture on the sweater of the fifth look is also killing me (it's like a frankenstein of rugs, in a weirdly good way). 

CALVIN KLEIN
Costa celebrated his 10th anniversary at Calvin Klein with this collection and it was celebratory indeed. The signature clean simplicity was maintained well throughout save for a few party pieces (rainbow fringe, is that you?) but it flowed nicely from pure whites and subtle beiges to a pleasant green. The frayed hems were later exaggerated into a lovely airy fringe in the last gowns, a beautiful way to close the collection.

PRABAL GURUNG
On the other side of the fashion spectrum, Prabal Gurung brought us powder puffed flowery that was rare on the SS14 runways. The lightest pinks and limes took on the form of ultra feminine frocks and cool separates, splashed with black and white geometric and floral graphics. Although it was derivative of past collections (who do you see?), aesthetic wise, it was a generally gorgeous collection. I am infatuated with the pairing of the sheer coat over the green and black in the fourth look. 

DELPOZO
Toying with volume is something that few designers can execute successfully (in my eyes, at least). Consequently, my first encounter with this collection already made me a fan of the Spanish brand. Whimsical and spring-y in all the right ways, the variety of shape and texture throughout the pieces had me swooning. The mix of floral types was also amazing, spanning from painterly and cartoon-y to rigidly geometric. I love the contrast between the milky blouse and the solid cracker like skirt pairing as well as the embellishment on the third look creates an icing-like effect. Maybe I'm just hungry, but everything looked scrumptiously adorable.

images via style.com

And that concludes my NYFW coverage! Keep your eyes out for my LFW posts, coming up soon!

xx

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9.14.2013

SS14 | NYFW - William Okpo

images by yours truly!

During my first month in NYC last fall, I was invited to my first ever presentation during fashion week for the relatively new label William Okpo. 
It was such a welcoming gesture and it really made my freshman year of college (so many thanks to Danika!) 
Today, the quirky brand continues to present fashion in innovative and unconventional ways, as evident in their latest spring summer 2014 collection, which was shown with Opening Ceremony's BTW series at "super pier" Pier 57. 

The designers Lizzy and Darlene Okpo have a real knack for pulling off proportions in all the right ways (look at their past seasons and you'll see!). Hem lengths were longer than the usual thigh-high miniskirt or shorts that pervaded the New York runways but maintained an aura of street cool. When I entered the venue, I was immediately drawn to the volume and cut of that red tank top paired with the slim fitting bermuda length leather shorts. The muted blue color with a sea of white and hint of red made for a stunning color palette.
Also, look at those super rad "face prints" all over the collection! The adorable graphics were inspired by illustrations in barber shops that the Okpo sisters saw during a trip to Senegal. 

Personally, I think one of the best parts of the collection its tie to charity, as they teamed up with 14 Plus NYC, an organization that builds and develops schools and orphanages in rural African communities. The Okpos created a capsule collection of monochrome tees and totes featuring the fantastic print, with all proceeds going to the 14+ foundation. Talk about an amazing marriage of fashion and philanthropy. 

Find out more about 14 Plus NYC & view and shop William Okpo capsule collection here!

xx

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9.11.2013

SS14 | NYFW - Opening Ceremony

all images shot by yours truly!

This Sunday night, I attended Opening Ceremony's inaugural runway show for their spring summer 2014 collection, held at Pier 57 (many thanks to the amazing Blake!) 
All I was told was that it involved cars and that it was going to be MAJOR.

The seating was all around the perimeter of an enormous empty center space and we all suddenly had the feeling that the cars were going there. Then, the lights dimmed and the fashion crowds cheered as the first sleek sports car drove in (Maserati? Ferrari? I don't know cars, sorry haha). 
Once they all parked in a complex alternating chevron pattern (I seriously applaud those drivers), the girls began to exit their cars and tour the "runway." 

I expected an heavy auto/racing theme but was proven otherwise (at least for most of the collection). In the first few looks, elegant and clean cut monochrome separates were balanced with quirky printed frocks with strap details. Refined silhouettes and round edges kept the pieces visually interesting one after another. 
Likewise, the accessories game was on point, with amazingly tailored handbags and satchels accompanying the cool ensembles down the runway. Pastel heels with chunky lucite heels also contrasted beautifully against a few of the printed pieces.

Once all the models were all stationed next to their respective cars, the beat changed and suddenly a  troupe of male models and a few girls entered the runway. There, the sportif look came to life, as the models were wearing these amazing moto helmet visor-esque contraptions. Colorblocking, stripes, and garments reminiscent of NASCAR uniforms appeared in the menswear pieces, which were more subdued and done in darker hues and no-fuss tailored silhouettes.

What I appreciated most about this show was how it transitioned to a "presentation" type set-up following the runway portion. Although the models were ushered out early because one seemed to be lightheaded/dehydrated, it was fantastic to be able to go up to my favorite looks and snap detail shots. 

The show was an incredible (and historic at that--what an over the top yet very well-executed first show--can you imagine how crazy their shows are going to be now?!) #NYFW experience that I'll probably never forget. 
I call show of the season. 

xx

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6.30.2013

MENSWEAR SS14 | Paris Round-up

I think it's safe to say that Paris is blessed with the best menswear lineup. So as I dragged looks upon looks onto my desktop in hope of blogging them and having two separate posts of a total of 10 PFW favorites, it occurred to me that my timing would be a little off. I try to be punctual with my runway posts because they are such time-based things and I don't want you guys to be getting old (/stale/irrelevant) news. Therefore, I took it upon myself to exercise my judgment and editing skills--although, try as I might, refining my top favorites was extremely difficult. But here they are, a total of 6 of my favorite collections from Paris menswear.

 HAIDER ACKERMANN

The response to Ackermann's womenswear (literally, check the most recent seasons, to die for) speaks volumes about the odd universality of his aesthetic and his catering to style spectators who lust for his pieces. The same goes for his menswear--we continue to get that impeccable tailoring, signature loose fits, and rich palette in his ss14 pieces. I'm really digging the juxtaposition of the different textures as well as the dark and light hues. Give me the entire look on Cole Mohr and Paul Boche's pants, please.

 KRIS VAN ASSCHE

If you've been reading my mini reviews for the last month or so, you'll probably see the common denominator of my love for clean cuts. Especially when paired with boxy sleeves and done in solid hues of darks, brights, and whites, sharply tailored pieces make me ache for a no-fuss man's wardrobe stocked full of KvA. I love the highlight of the zipper details throughout, as well as the color choice--really loving the forest green and cerise (I just looked up this color, it's stunning). 

3.1 PHILLIP LIM
If you want to talk about wearability, let's discuss 3.1 Phillip Lim. From the glimmering patched moto vest to the floral pullover, this collection screamed everything I wanted for spring. The plastic buckle detailing and otherwise minimal hardware kept me focused on the amazing garments. The iridescent beetle sheen of that bomber jacket and those serape-esque pants are killing me. 

DIOR HOMME
Wow, Kris van Assche can do no wrong. The minimal palette of plum/aubergine, blue hues, and black was perfect for me. Although I was a bit bored at times, different details caught my eye as I clicked through the collection. I clearly saw Mondrian references (I'm sure Cathy Horyn probably saw something else) and they definitely solidified my love for this collection. Also, can we talk about the insane venue and runway/set? (pictures)
LANVIN
Man shorts are such a thing. Although this was a man-shorts-a-plenty collection, I zoned in on the amazing outerwear pieces. Oversized overcoats and loosely cut trousers were paired with ultracool details like sleek fanny packs (yeah, I know) and sleek skinny ties. The murse in the fourth look is also kind of amazing. Overall, a very sophisticated and modern collection for the contemporary menswear man. Claps for Alber!!!
JUUN J

When I reblogged the "jersey" pullover in the second look on tumblr, it didn't occur to me that it was from the most recent collection by one of my favorite Korean designers. The marbled look and the 3-D surface print are everyone's favorite LPD tees to the next level. Voluminous shirts of exaggerated oxfords and trumpet sleeves were a comical yet fitting contrast to the short shorts on the models. 
That navy coat with the collar and hood will probably haunt me in my dreams--along with that beautifully ghostly baby Kristin McMenamy with twig antlers. 
images via style.com & thefashionisto.com
THIS CONCLUDES my menswear coverage for the Spring Summer 2014 season, hope you enjoyed! 
Click "RUNWAY" on the sidebar to see the rest of my reviews.
xx
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